Treatment of Fear in Dogs
by Robert Forto, PhD
In an article a few weeks back I discussed the causes of fear in dogs and why it manifests. This week I will discuss the treatments of fear and how to prevent your dog from becoming fear/anxiety-induced aggressive.
Fear is more common than most people think in dogs. Almost weekly someone will come into Denver Dog Works and state that their dog is fearful of this or that and that he is aggressive. I start off by evaluating their dog and begin to explain that fear is an emotional state of dread triggered by perceived danger. Anxiety, a fear based state of uneasiness and irritability, is the state of annoyed stimulation.
All three are unpleasant emotions that cause defensiveness in living things, often resulting in defense aggression, Therese states of emotion are usually fed by a number of contributing factors instead of just one, and just like us, dogs have a limit to what they can endure before feeling the need to defend themselves. Although some dogs have a lower threshold than others, if the stimulus persists and the emotion grows in intensity, sooner or later most of us will defend ourselves. Everything that creates a feeling of unease is a potential bite and every dog has the potential for defensive aggression.
Treatment for fear/irritability/anxiety induced aggression
DO NOT punish the dog; the only way to eliminate fear is to raise confidence.
All necessary reprimands must be verbal, and only severe enough to stop the unwanted behavior. The moment the dog acknowledges the verbal reprimand, the reprimand must stop.
Interrupt and re-direct unwanted behaviors to teach the dog “don’t do this, do that.”
Teach relaxation exercises.
Carefully play games such as wrestling and tug-o-war to raise the dog’s confidence, being careful to follow the rules for games and to never overwhelm or frighten the dog.
Have the dog sleep in the same room as the owner to strengthen the trust and bond.
List all the fear triggers.
Systematically desensitize the dog to each fear trigger.
Pair up food and games with what previously caused a fear reaction.
Work at a pace that avoids putting the dog in a fearful situation, instead create a low level of arousal.
Defuse a fearful reaction by using the jolly routine, reciting poetry or signing, to change the mood.
Ignore fearful behaviors and reward non-fearful behavior.
Start an obedience training program including positive reinforcement techniques to help raise the dog’s confidence.
Always reward correct responses, confidence and good behavior.
Eliminate stress from your dog’s life.
Provide chew toys to eliminate stress and boredom.
Never leave the dog unsupervised in the presence of anyone who is not a trained part of the rehabilitation program, especially children.
Avoid close contact with strangers and especially children when not actively training the dog.
Please understand that this article is used as a guide in the treatment of fear in dogs and should in no means replace a behavior modification program under the direction of a canine behaviorist. Remember that most dog trainers do not understand the underlying causes of fear and the behavior behind it. While these trainers will be very good at teaching loose leash walking, sit, and other basic manners, I advise you to consult with a canine behaviorist if you suspect fear in your dog.
Denver Dog Works offers behavioral consultations to deal with a wide variety of behaviors including fear and aggression. All behavioral consultation are under the direction and supervision of Dr. Robert Forto, a certified canine behaviorist. If you would like to schedule an evaluation, Dr. Robert Forto can be reached through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727.
_________________________
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado and is a certified canine behaviorist. Dr. Forto can be reached through his website at www.denverdogworks.com.
Showing posts with label canines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label canines. Show all posts
Friday, August 15, 2008
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Stress and Compulsion in Dogs
Stress and Compulsion in Dogs
By Robert Forto, PhD
Is your otherwise good dog driving you to distraction repeatedly snapping at shadows or chasing his tail for hours? Robert Forto, PhD, certified canine behaviorist and training director of Denver Dog Works recalls a case from a few years ago:
A client’s bull terrier would spend much of the day staring at reflections and pouncing on shadows, he said. “He’d stare at his water bowl and refuse to drink, apparently because of the reflection. Eventually we resorted to using a rabbit sized water dispenser wrapped in a towel to get him to drink.”
Dogs exhibiting such compulsive behaviors may end up in a animal shelter or worse. “Seriously affected dogs may be euthanized if owners or veterinarians are not aware of treatments available,” Said Dr. Forto.
Chasing and other predatory pursuits and grooming are all normal dog behaviors that were once essential in the wild. Today, some dog owners unknowingly reward behaviors like tail chasing or retrieving objects, believing they are “cute.”
“But normal behaviors become problematic when performed to the excess,” Dr. Forto said. “A dog with a compulsive disorder is often unable to terminate the repetitious behavior. His normal patterns may be disrupted to the point where he would rather perform the behavior than go for a walk, come to you when you call him or even eat or drink. Understandably, this is frustrating for both the dog and owner.”
Obsessive-compulsive disorders, whether in humans or animals are repetitive, relatively unvaried behavior patterns that re exaggerated in intensity, frequency and duration. In dogs, they include pacing, spinning, tail chasing, shadow chasing, flank or fabric sucking and over-grooming. People suffering from OCD may wash their hands excessively or return home repeatedly to make sure they turned off the stove.
In young dogs, compulsive behaviors often appear before they reach sexual maturity and are exacerbated by a stressful situation. In some cases, the behaviors have a high threshold of expression—they need exposure to strong stimuli before being activates.
Frequently, the trigger or cause of the behavior is likely to be the interaction of genes and environment. For example, behavioral observations suggest compulsive tail chasing is derived from a predatory instinct gone awry. “Today, I suspect there is a genetic basis for most compulsive behaviors,” Dr. Forto said.
One reason: Some breeds are prone to certain types of compulsive behaviors. For example, Doberman Pinschers tend to exhibit flank sucking and fabric or blanket sucking disorders, while tail chasing or spinning tends to occur in Bull Terriers and German Shepherd Dogs. Large breeds, such as Golden’s and Labradors more frequently than other breeds persistently groom the lower extremities of the limbs, resulting in lesions.
Simply diverting a dog from the behavior isn’t ineffective. Once a behavior has reached compulsive proportions, the dog has no ability to terminate the behavior.
Arousal Levels
Because compulsive behaviors tend to progress if untreated the sooner the owner recognizes it, the sooner they can deal with it. Dr. Forto first suggests a veterinary visit to rule out any underlying medical conditions. Next, he advises owners to examine the dog’s environment an his management, looking at any aspect that would trigger or increase arousal levels for compulsive behaviors.
For example, dogs are social animals, and leaving then tied outside can make them feel ostracized—in addition to being vulnerable to predators and theft. Dogs who live indoors tend to feel more included and secure. However compulsive behaviors goes well beyond being lonely or bored, Dr. Forto said. “it’s a medical disorder of as yet unknown neurological origins. Although many neglected dogs do not develop compulsive disorders, the stress of insufficient social interaction can certainly be a trigger for a dog predisposed to developing compulsive behavior.”
Dogs also need more mental stimulation than the living room sofa provides. Whenever possible, owners should take their dog to work with them, on errands and especially outside to hike or retrieve balls. Obedience classes serve a double purpose. They allow owners to spend time with their dog, while giving the dog a job to do. These approaches can help avoid separation anxiety, boredom, loneliness and frustration—and compulsive behaviors they trigger.
For compulsive behaviors that cannot be interrupted, that interfere with normal functioning or resulting in physical injury medications like Prozac and other serotonin re-uptake blockers can help. They stabilize the dog’s mood so he can respond more readily to behavior modification techniques. Medications are especially effective with dogs when they have a regular schedule, lots of mental stimulation, exercise and social contact.
“Most compulsive dogs person well to a combination f behavior modification and anti-anxiety medications.” Dr. Forto said. “So far we have had good success rates, but we are not yet at 100 percent. If we can identify the genes for compulsive behaviors, we might be able to develop more effective treatments.
_____________
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado and specializes in canine aggression and violent dogs. Dr. Forto can be reached through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727.
By Robert Forto, PhD
Is your otherwise good dog driving you to distraction repeatedly snapping at shadows or chasing his tail for hours? Robert Forto, PhD, certified canine behaviorist and training director of Denver Dog Works recalls a case from a few years ago:
A client’s bull terrier would spend much of the day staring at reflections and pouncing on shadows, he said. “He’d stare at his water bowl and refuse to drink, apparently because of the reflection. Eventually we resorted to using a rabbit sized water dispenser wrapped in a towel to get him to drink.”
Dogs exhibiting such compulsive behaviors may end up in a animal shelter or worse. “Seriously affected dogs may be euthanized if owners or veterinarians are not aware of treatments available,” Said Dr. Forto.
Chasing and other predatory pursuits and grooming are all normal dog behaviors that were once essential in the wild. Today, some dog owners unknowingly reward behaviors like tail chasing or retrieving objects, believing they are “cute.”
“But normal behaviors become problematic when performed to the excess,” Dr. Forto said. “A dog with a compulsive disorder is often unable to terminate the repetitious behavior. His normal patterns may be disrupted to the point where he would rather perform the behavior than go for a walk, come to you when you call him or even eat or drink. Understandably, this is frustrating for both the dog and owner.”
Obsessive-compulsive disorders, whether in humans or animals are repetitive, relatively unvaried behavior patterns that re exaggerated in intensity, frequency and duration. In dogs, they include pacing, spinning, tail chasing, shadow chasing, flank or fabric sucking and over-grooming. People suffering from OCD may wash their hands excessively or return home repeatedly to make sure they turned off the stove.
In young dogs, compulsive behaviors often appear before they reach sexual maturity and are exacerbated by a stressful situation. In some cases, the behaviors have a high threshold of expression—they need exposure to strong stimuli before being activates.
Frequently, the trigger or cause of the behavior is likely to be the interaction of genes and environment. For example, behavioral observations suggest compulsive tail chasing is derived from a predatory instinct gone awry. “Today, I suspect there is a genetic basis for most compulsive behaviors,” Dr. Forto said.
One reason: Some breeds are prone to certain types of compulsive behaviors. For example, Doberman Pinschers tend to exhibit flank sucking and fabric or blanket sucking disorders, while tail chasing or spinning tends to occur in Bull Terriers and German Shepherd Dogs. Large breeds, such as Golden’s and Labradors more frequently than other breeds persistently groom the lower extremities of the limbs, resulting in lesions.
Simply diverting a dog from the behavior isn’t ineffective. Once a behavior has reached compulsive proportions, the dog has no ability to terminate the behavior.
Arousal Levels
Because compulsive behaviors tend to progress if untreated the sooner the owner recognizes it, the sooner they can deal with it. Dr. Forto first suggests a veterinary visit to rule out any underlying medical conditions. Next, he advises owners to examine the dog’s environment an his management, looking at any aspect that would trigger or increase arousal levels for compulsive behaviors.
For example, dogs are social animals, and leaving then tied outside can make them feel ostracized—in addition to being vulnerable to predators and theft. Dogs who live indoors tend to feel more included and secure. However compulsive behaviors goes well beyond being lonely or bored, Dr. Forto said. “it’s a medical disorder of as yet unknown neurological origins. Although many neglected dogs do not develop compulsive disorders, the stress of insufficient social interaction can certainly be a trigger for a dog predisposed to developing compulsive behavior.”
Dogs also need more mental stimulation than the living room sofa provides. Whenever possible, owners should take their dog to work with them, on errands and especially outside to hike or retrieve balls. Obedience classes serve a double purpose. They allow owners to spend time with their dog, while giving the dog a job to do. These approaches can help avoid separation anxiety, boredom, loneliness and frustration—and compulsive behaviors they trigger.
For compulsive behaviors that cannot be interrupted, that interfere with normal functioning or resulting in physical injury medications like Prozac and other serotonin re-uptake blockers can help. They stabilize the dog’s mood so he can respond more readily to behavior modification techniques. Medications are especially effective with dogs when they have a regular schedule, lots of mental stimulation, exercise and social contact.
“Most compulsive dogs person well to a combination f behavior modification and anti-anxiety medications.” Dr. Forto said. “So far we have had good success rates, but we are not yet at 100 percent. If we can identify the genes for compulsive behaviors, we might be able to develop more effective treatments.
_____________
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado and specializes in canine aggression and violent dogs. Dr. Forto can be reached through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Dog Training in a Bad Economy
Dog Training in a Bad Economy
By Robert Forto, PhD
I am not an economist but I do not think it takes one to notice the skinnier pocketbook after bills are paid and purchases are made. It does not take an economist to notice the news about increasing foreclosures or the pets that are dropped off at shelters by owners claiming they "cannot afford him anymore" or the news of possible recession. I have even heard of a few people who have had an ingenious change of plans for the summer vacation this year. Maybe they will decide against driving to Walley World in the Family Truckster and visit Aunt Edna instead. The following article is meant to be satirical but has a severe element of truth attached. I encourage you to read my ramblings and comment on what you think.
I still feel the bite in grocery, gasoline, and utility prices. It is hard to say what one would do in another's situation but I do know that I regard my dogs as family and that not many things in this world would separate me from them. In that vein, I have a few, hopefully helpful, tips for homeowners who have lost their homes to foreclosure and are faced with landlords who are not friendly to the idea of pets on their property. There are also ways to ease the cost of keeping a dog by learning how to do some things yourself and by discussing alternatives with your veterinarian or local shelter or low cost community clinic. Most of them are sympathetic and want to help you find ways to keep your pet. But that is not the topic of this article. I would be happy to speak with you about these tips and alternatives, just give me a call.
To introduce myself: My name is Robert Forto and I am a certified canine behaviorist and the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. I have been in business for eighteen years and the status of our economy is said to be the worst in my lifetime. I remember the gas shortages in the seventies and having to ration food until my parents got paid again but I also remember that our little mixed breed, Sugar, always had what she needed.
Dog training is not a luxury item for most people, like an evening on the town or a weekend vacation to Vail. Dog training is a necessity. With 77.1 million dogs in this country that equals a lot of bad mannered pooches. Dogs need basic manners. If they don’t have these it leads to bigger problems and often lands them in a shelter.
The way I look at the economy is that the glass is either half full or half empty. I tend to err on the side of realist, but that is just my point of view. It appears to me that people are in a near panic because gas prices have gone up a couple dollars in the past few months, the stock market is in a deep slide and people are losing their homes because they were greedy and materialistic, and bought a house with nothing down and then decided to blow their equity on boats, plasma TV’s and ATV’s. Now they are forced to move out of their homes because of foreclosure and they are leaving their beloved pet behind to starve to death. How is that for going from bad to worse?
But really what has changed? True, when President Bush came into office gas was $1.60 a gallon, we were not at war based on false pretenses, and the stock market was in the middle of an Internet explosion. We still had dogs, just not as many dog parks with dog owners on cell-phones and yelling “leave it”. We didn’t have much in the way of big-box, corporate America—pet store-six dollar an hour earning cashiers/shelf stocker/can-I-help-you-find-something please…/dog trainers. It was a different world then. Now we have a presidential candidate pushing “change that we can believe in” rhetoric, and we still have dogs and they still need training right? They are still pulling on the leash, tearing up our couches that we got on a loan that we could not afford from a big furniture warehouse. They still need grooming and vet care and they still require our attention. Rightly so, we should be devoting this attention to our family and kids (and dogs) instead of working two, or maybe three, jobs because we are so worried about the price of gas. I vaguely remember when I was a kid some obscure quote about the price of tea in China. What was it?
Now China is the second largest economy in the World and we are hardly a threat to them anymore. Hey, they do have the Olympics starting on 08/08/08. Do you remember what was supposed to happen on 01/01/00? What a dud that turned out to be. I am a huge fan of the Olympics and will probably stay up all night watching ambiguous sporting events that don’t exist except in the Olympics. True, I could just log on to the Internet and find out who won--but why? I won’t be able to sleep because I will be too worried about the status of the Dow Jones Industrial Average that really doesn’t mean anything to anybody anyway. Maybe I will work on the long-down exercise with my dog.
When I was writing my dissertation for my doctorate I had grand plans of researching getting the sport of dog sledding into the Winter Olympics. Maybe I need to rethink that idea and concentrate my research to using a dog team as a mode of transportation. When I lived in Duluth, Minnesota I did just that. I would hook up my 12-dog team in the middle of a blizzard and mush to the local convenience store for “staples”, or at least what I thought were staples, for a recent 20-something college grad. But even a dog team is not cheap and I would venture to guess, more expensive than gas if all is tallied right—it averages about three dollars a day to keep a dog for a dog team. That is a lot more than four dollars for a gallon of gas. I digress.
Yes, dog training is a necessity. Maybe not for the dog. They do not read the Journal, even though they think in black and white. I admit I read the Journal, not for those cool stipulated (and pixilated) pictures but for the articles of course. Dog training is for us. Dog training is a necessity to save our sanity, to save us from our self-destructive selves. The thought dog training brings me to paraphrase a line from a movie, A Christmas Story: to make “all is right in the world”. Dog training brings us back in line with a simpler time. Even if that was just the 1990’s when ‘Generation X’ was making millions on the Internet and Homeward Bound, Air Bud, Iron Will, Fluke, and the cute little dog, “Eddie”, from Fraiser won our hearts and we aspired to have our dogs trained just like them. When a Doberman named “Raisin” won the Westminster dog show and we found out that he flew on a private jet. We all had grandiose dreams and inspirations for our four-legged mans-best-friend. This is when I chose to became a dog trainer and why I still love what I do. True it is trying at times. Dog training is difficult work. It is the ultimate customer service job. I have been criticized countless times for standing up for my training philosophies, my staff, why I would want to offer an agility class outside in the middle of winter, and of course people having unrealistic expectations. I learn from every client and I am passionate about what I do. I realized a long time ago I don’t just train dogs, I change lives.
Training your dog can change your life too. It will bring you closer to humanity and to your dog. It will allow you to think outside the box and stop the incessant worrying about the economy. Orthodoxy is not the norm in dog training. It is not mundane and relentless. Like the agility class in the middle of winter that people were so critical of at Denver Dog Works. Sure it was cold and there was snow on the ground but no other dog training school would even think of such a thing. People thought Sir Edmund Hillary was crazy for climbing Mt. Everest and why people still try to go over Niagara Falls in a barrel. People thought they were avant-garde, but didn’t they change people’s perception? Dog training will bring you a new perspective on life and the simplest of experiences that we love so much about our dogs. Such as: why we can sit and wonder why they turn their head a certain way when we talk to them, or why even old dogs, like my 11-year old Siberian Husky, Ineka, can still run and frolic and wake me up every morning with those intense ice-blue eyes. Dog training can bring you happiness, joy, and understanding to an otherwise out-of-control world. Now that is change we can believe in.
_______________________
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He welcomes your comments, both positive and negative. Dr. Forto encourages you to give Denver Dog works a call so we can see this through together. Dr. Forto can be contacted through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727 anytime.
By Robert Forto, PhD
I am not an economist but I do not think it takes one to notice the skinnier pocketbook after bills are paid and purchases are made. It does not take an economist to notice the news about increasing foreclosures or the pets that are dropped off at shelters by owners claiming they "cannot afford him anymore" or the news of possible recession. I have even heard of a few people who have had an ingenious change of plans for the summer vacation this year. Maybe they will decide against driving to Walley World in the Family Truckster and visit Aunt Edna instead. The following article is meant to be satirical but has a severe element of truth attached. I encourage you to read my ramblings and comment on what you think.
I still feel the bite in grocery, gasoline, and utility prices. It is hard to say what one would do in another's situation but I do know that I regard my dogs as family and that not many things in this world would separate me from them. In that vein, I have a few, hopefully helpful, tips for homeowners who have lost their homes to foreclosure and are faced with landlords who are not friendly to the idea of pets on their property. There are also ways to ease the cost of keeping a dog by learning how to do some things yourself and by discussing alternatives with your veterinarian or local shelter or low cost community clinic. Most of them are sympathetic and want to help you find ways to keep your pet. But that is not the topic of this article. I would be happy to speak with you about these tips and alternatives, just give me a call.
To introduce myself: My name is Robert Forto and I am a certified canine behaviorist and the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. I have been in business for eighteen years and the status of our economy is said to be the worst in my lifetime. I remember the gas shortages in the seventies and having to ration food until my parents got paid again but I also remember that our little mixed breed, Sugar, always had what she needed.
Dog training is not a luxury item for most people, like an evening on the town or a weekend vacation to Vail. Dog training is a necessity. With 77.1 million dogs in this country that equals a lot of bad mannered pooches. Dogs need basic manners. If they don’t have these it leads to bigger problems and often lands them in a shelter.
The way I look at the economy is that the glass is either half full or half empty. I tend to err on the side of realist, but that is just my point of view. It appears to me that people are in a near panic because gas prices have gone up a couple dollars in the past few months, the stock market is in a deep slide and people are losing their homes because they were greedy and materialistic, and bought a house with nothing down and then decided to blow their equity on boats, plasma TV’s and ATV’s. Now they are forced to move out of their homes because of foreclosure and they are leaving their beloved pet behind to starve to death. How is that for going from bad to worse?
But really what has changed? True, when President Bush came into office gas was $1.60 a gallon, we were not at war based on false pretenses, and the stock market was in the middle of an Internet explosion. We still had dogs, just not as many dog parks with dog owners on cell-phones and yelling “leave it”. We didn’t have much in the way of big-box, corporate America—pet store-six dollar an hour earning cashiers/shelf stocker/can-I-help-you-find-something please…/dog trainers. It was a different world then. Now we have a presidential candidate pushing “change that we can believe in” rhetoric, and we still have dogs and they still need training right? They are still pulling on the leash, tearing up our couches that we got on a loan that we could not afford from a big furniture warehouse. They still need grooming and vet care and they still require our attention. Rightly so, we should be devoting this attention to our family and kids (and dogs) instead of working two, or maybe three, jobs because we are so worried about the price of gas. I vaguely remember when I was a kid some obscure quote about the price of tea in China. What was it?
Now China is the second largest economy in the World and we are hardly a threat to them anymore. Hey, they do have the Olympics starting on 08/08/08. Do you remember what was supposed to happen on 01/01/00? What a dud that turned out to be. I am a huge fan of the Olympics and will probably stay up all night watching ambiguous sporting events that don’t exist except in the Olympics. True, I could just log on to the Internet and find out who won--but why? I won’t be able to sleep because I will be too worried about the status of the Dow Jones Industrial Average that really doesn’t mean anything to anybody anyway. Maybe I will work on the long-down exercise with my dog.
When I was writing my dissertation for my doctorate I had grand plans of researching getting the sport of dog sledding into the Winter Olympics. Maybe I need to rethink that idea and concentrate my research to using a dog team as a mode of transportation. When I lived in Duluth, Minnesota I did just that. I would hook up my 12-dog team in the middle of a blizzard and mush to the local convenience store for “staples”, or at least what I thought were staples, for a recent 20-something college grad. But even a dog team is not cheap and I would venture to guess, more expensive than gas if all is tallied right—it averages about three dollars a day to keep a dog for a dog team. That is a lot more than four dollars for a gallon of gas. I digress.
Yes, dog training is a necessity. Maybe not for the dog. They do not read the Journal, even though they think in black and white. I admit I read the Journal, not for those cool stipulated (and pixilated) pictures but for the articles of course. Dog training is for us. Dog training is a necessity to save our sanity, to save us from our self-destructive selves. The thought dog training brings me to paraphrase a line from a movie, A Christmas Story: to make “all is right in the world”. Dog training brings us back in line with a simpler time. Even if that was just the 1990’s when ‘Generation X’ was making millions on the Internet and Homeward Bound, Air Bud, Iron Will, Fluke, and the cute little dog, “Eddie”, from Fraiser won our hearts and we aspired to have our dogs trained just like them. When a Doberman named “Raisin” won the Westminster dog show and we found out that he flew on a private jet. We all had grandiose dreams and inspirations for our four-legged mans-best-friend. This is when I chose to became a dog trainer and why I still love what I do. True it is trying at times. Dog training is difficult work. It is the ultimate customer service job. I have been criticized countless times for standing up for my training philosophies, my staff, why I would want to offer an agility class outside in the middle of winter, and of course people having unrealistic expectations. I learn from every client and I am passionate about what I do. I realized a long time ago I don’t just train dogs, I change lives.
Training your dog can change your life too. It will bring you closer to humanity and to your dog. It will allow you to think outside the box and stop the incessant worrying about the economy. Orthodoxy is not the norm in dog training. It is not mundane and relentless. Like the agility class in the middle of winter that people were so critical of at Denver Dog Works. Sure it was cold and there was snow on the ground but no other dog training school would even think of such a thing. People thought Sir Edmund Hillary was crazy for climbing Mt. Everest and why people still try to go over Niagara Falls in a barrel. People thought they were avant-garde, but didn’t they change people’s perception? Dog training will bring you a new perspective on life and the simplest of experiences that we love so much about our dogs. Such as: why we can sit and wonder why they turn their head a certain way when we talk to them, or why even old dogs, like my 11-year old Siberian Husky, Ineka, can still run and frolic and wake me up every morning with those intense ice-blue eyes. Dog training can bring you happiness, joy, and understanding to an otherwise out-of-control world. Now that is change we can believe in.
_______________________
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He welcomes your comments, both positive and negative. Dr. Forto encourages you to give Denver Dog works a call so we can see this through together. Dr. Forto can be contacted through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727 anytime.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Fear in Dogs
By Robert Forto, PhD
As a canine behaviorist and the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado, I am often treating cases of fear in the family pet. In some cases it is relatively mild, say thunder or a car backfire, but far more common is fear related aggression and generalized anxiety with a fear component. The anxiety coupled with fear is usually a result of lack of improper socialization in the dog’s early environment. I will see this very common in rescued dogs. At least once a week a pet owner will come in for an evaluation and say that they just rescued Max, from the local shelter and their primary complaint is that he is scared to death of everything. I counsel the new owners about fear and how it develops in dogs and my opinion of why so many dogs end up in shelters in the first place. Fear is a central catalyst for this occurrence and dogs in shelters.
Every dog or animal with a reasonably developed central nervous system has fear. Fear is one of the basic drives, along with hunger, thirst, sleep, sex and sociality. Out-of-control fear is as much of a problem as any other drive that is out of control. But fear in normal amounts is essential, as is hunger and thirst in normal amounts. Fear is what keeps us from having a pick-up game of football on the freeway in the middle of rush-hour, and keeps us from walking on thin ice literally and figuratively. Fear helps us avoid certain disaster and keeps us alive longer. It does the same in dogs. However, we and dogs are not born with fear. Humans and dogs have an apparent fear of, snakes, it takes time to develop, about two years in humans, and several months in dogs.
Uncontrollable fear is a delicate training protocol. It is not teaching a simple sit or walking on a loose leash. You cannot treat fear by attending a group class or a puppy kindergarten, while these programs are good for the basic commands, they should not be used after a dog exhibits extreme examples of fear. Treating fear involves a program of desensitization and counter-conditioning. While these are the building blocks for canine training and behavior modification, they are principles that are unfortunately not learned by most dog trainers these days. If you suspect fear, or any other severe behavioral issue, my advice is to speak to a canine behaviorist. The difference between a behaviorist, and a trainer per say, is that the behaviorist is educated in the sciences and nuances of canine behavior and its origins. They do not practice lure based training or intimidation in behavior modification like so many of the dog trainers do today.
In the dog, fear begins between six and eight weeks of age. As an average figure, fear becomes noticeable in a pup and rapidly escalates in the seventh week, plus or minus one week. By three weeks after the onset of fear responses, fear plateaus out at a level for pups and for the specific genetic complement that have. In humans, fear begins at about two years and is not fully developed until about 20 years later. Ever see a teenage boy who did not think he was indestructible?
So, fear develops sometimes early in the life of a dog, but does not develop at the same rate in all dogs, and obviously occurs at different levels in each individual. There are three factors which alone or in combination act to determine the level of fear any given dog shows.
The first is genetic. The dog inherits a predisposition of fear. If the genetic potential is for a high level of fear, or put another away, if the dog has a low threshold for fear-inducing stimuli, it will overreact to a fearful stimulus, or what is more often the case, to a whole gamut of stimuli. What would cause a mild startle effect response in a dog with a normal fear level will drive the over-reactor ballistic.
A second factor that causes uncontrollable fear is early environment, usually from improper or even total lack of primary and secondary socialization during the critical sensitive period from 3 to 12 weeks of age. Under the influence of this fear-inducing factor, the dog might be genetically solid as the famous rock, but it missed exposure to people, various sounds, short periods of separation from Mom and the siblings when the socialization window is wide open. Therefore, the dog has never formed the association between people, sounds and objects, and low anxiety prior to the development of the fear, the only time the association can be formed. The dog will forever fear these things that will normally occur every day of its life.
The third factor is learned fear. It comes about by the chance association formed between some arbitrary neutral stimulus—say the ringing of the phone—and a negative reinforcement, something painful—like stepping on a thumbtack. If the ring happens coincidentally with or milliseconds before the pain of the tack in the foot, the dog associates the ring with the pain and will show a fear reaction to the phone ringing. Learned fear is always specific to the stimulus in the same class. So any ring similar to the phone will cause the fear response in the dog. If the fear is only to the ring of the phone and very similar ring sounds, we can live with it, but if it is something that seriously interferes with the dog’s hunting performance like fear of a loud noise (translation, a gunshot), it must be fixed and can be.
In an upcoming article I will discuss the treatment options available for the different factors of fear. Please note that these articles are for informational purposes and should not be used as a substitute for treatment of fear, or any other severe behavior problems, in your dog. This treatment should only be done under the guidance of a canine behaviorist or on a recommendation of your local veterinarian.
_______________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado and routinely treats fear in dogs. If you would like to schedule a consultation with Dr. Forto, he can be reached through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727 anytime.
As a canine behaviorist and the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado, I am often treating cases of fear in the family pet. In some cases it is relatively mild, say thunder or a car backfire, but far more common is fear related aggression and generalized anxiety with a fear component. The anxiety coupled with fear is usually a result of lack of improper socialization in the dog’s early environment. I will see this very common in rescued dogs. At least once a week a pet owner will come in for an evaluation and say that they just rescued Max, from the local shelter and their primary complaint is that he is scared to death of everything. I counsel the new owners about fear and how it develops in dogs and my opinion of why so many dogs end up in shelters in the first place. Fear is a central catalyst for this occurrence and dogs in shelters.
Every dog or animal with a reasonably developed central nervous system has fear. Fear is one of the basic drives, along with hunger, thirst, sleep, sex and sociality. Out-of-control fear is as much of a problem as any other drive that is out of control. But fear in normal amounts is essential, as is hunger and thirst in normal amounts. Fear is what keeps us from having a pick-up game of football on the freeway in the middle of rush-hour, and keeps us from walking on thin ice literally and figuratively. Fear helps us avoid certain disaster and keeps us alive longer. It does the same in dogs. However, we and dogs are not born with fear. Humans and dogs have an apparent fear of, snakes, it takes time to develop, about two years in humans, and several months in dogs.
Uncontrollable fear is a delicate training protocol. It is not teaching a simple sit or walking on a loose leash. You cannot treat fear by attending a group class or a puppy kindergarten, while these programs are good for the basic commands, they should not be used after a dog exhibits extreme examples of fear. Treating fear involves a program of desensitization and counter-conditioning. While these are the building blocks for canine training and behavior modification, they are principles that are unfortunately not learned by most dog trainers these days. If you suspect fear, or any other severe behavioral issue, my advice is to speak to a canine behaviorist. The difference between a behaviorist, and a trainer per say, is that the behaviorist is educated in the sciences and nuances of canine behavior and its origins. They do not practice lure based training or intimidation in behavior modification like so many of the dog trainers do today.
In the dog, fear begins between six and eight weeks of age. As an average figure, fear becomes noticeable in a pup and rapidly escalates in the seventh week, plus or minus one week. By three weeks after the onset of fear responses, fear plateaus out at a level for pups and for the specific genetic complement that have. In humans, fear begins at about two years and is not fully developed until about 20 years later. Ever see a teenage boy who did not think he was indestructible?
So, fear develops sometimes early in the life of a dog, but does not develop at the same rate in all dogs, and obviously occurs at different levels in each individual. There are three factors which alone or in combination act to determine the level of fear any given dog shows.
The first is genetic. The dog inherits a predisposition of fear. If the genetic potential is for a high level of fear, or put another away, if the dog has a low threshold for fear-inducing stimuli, it will overreact to a fearful stimulus, or what is more often the case, to a whole gamut of stimuli. What would cause a mild startle effect response in a dog with a normal fear level will drive the over-reactor ballistic.
A second factor that causes uncontrollable fear is early environment, usually from improper or even total lack of primary and secondary socialization during the critical sensitive period from 3 to 12 weeks of age. Under the influence of this fear-inducing factor, the dog might be genetically solid as the famous rock, but it missed exposure to people, various sounds, short periods of separation from Mom and the siblings when the socialization window is wide open. Therefore, the dog has never formed the association between people, sounds and objects, and low anxiety prior to the development of the fear, the only time the association can be formed. The dog will forever fear these things that will normally occur every day of its life.
The third factor is learned fear. It comes about by the chance association formed between some arbitrary neutral stimulus—say the ringing of the phone—and a negative reinforcement, something painful—like stepping on a thumbtack. If the ring happens coincidentally with or milliseconds before the pain of the tack in the foot, the dog associates the ring with the pain and will show a fear reaction to the phone ringing. Learned fear is always specific to the stimulus in the same class. So any ring similar to the phone will cause the fear response in the dog. If the fear is only to the ring of the phone and very similar ring sounds, we can live with it, but if it is something that seriously interferes with the dog’s hunting performance like fear of a loud noise (translation, a gunshot), it must be fixed and can be.
In an upcoming article I will discuss the treatment options available for the different factors of fear. Please note that these articles are for informational purposes and should not be used as a substitute for treatment of fear, or any other severe behavior problems, in your dog. This treatment should only be done under the guidance of a canine behaviorist or on a recommendation of your local veterinarian.
_______________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado and routinely treats fear in dogs. If you would like to schedule a consultation with Dr. Forto, he can be reached through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727 anytime.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
I Don't Have Time to Train My Dog!
I Don’t Have Time to Train My Dog!
By Robert Forto, PhD
How many times have you said to yourself: "Gee, I need to practice with my dog, but I just don't have time to train today." A client recently said this very thing to me. Of course, having dogs most of my life, being a certified canine behaviorist and believing in practical training, I readily had an answer: "Do you have time to eat? Do you have time to watch television...even the news? Do you have time to get your mail? Do you have time to surf the Internet?"
Well, then you have time to train. Isn't the purpose of training your dog to improve communications with your pet and increase the harmony between all the 2-legged and 4-legged members of your family?
Training does not always have to mean going to a dog-friendly park. Training does not have to take place on a large field. Training does not always include special equipment and time spent setting it up. Training does not have to involve a 30-minute block of time. And, training should never be tedious or boring.
Training opportunities are all around you. There is no better place to begin than in the home and there is no better time than RIGHT NOW!
Note: Adjust each training suggestion to the appropriate level for you and your pup, increasing the difficulty as training progresses. If you have questions, please check with your trainer. Dr. Robert Forto of Denver Dog Works in Colorado offers many specialized training program for you and your dog. At Denver Dog Works most of our clients sign up for basic manners classes. These classes are designed to make your canine companion a welcomed member of your home.
TIPS - Training In Practical Situations
Watching Television:
Place the dog on a down/stay during each commercial break. If the pup is housetrained, allow it freedom during the program.
When your dog is easily holding a 5-minute down/stay, reverse the procedure. Have the dog do a down/stay during the program and practice a more active command, such as heel, during the commercial break.
As training progresses, place your dog on a down/stay and leave the immediate area during each commercial break. Remember to enforce the command before leaving the room and upon re-entering.
If crate training is an issue, place the dog into the crate during each commercial and allow the dog to come out during the program. Then flip the times in the crate and the times outside. The randomness of your actions will lessen anxiety associated with crate training, i.e. owner leaving home.
If your dog becomes nervous and anxious during thunderstorms rent a movie that features them, i.e. The Perfect Storm. With your dog on a down/stay by your side, start the movie and play it very softly. Play and replay the weather scenes - - very softly. As your dog becomes accustomed to the noise, g-r-a-d-u-a-l-l-y increase the volume. Do this several times over a period of days, or even weeks, until you have solved the problem. This method also works for gunfire. Remember: go slowly. There are also CDs available with specific sounds. Denver Dog Works can also tailor a training program that deals with noise phobias.
Getting the Mail:
Our mail is not delivered to our door; I must walk to the end of the drive. While it is not far I take the dog along and use this time for a lesson in heel, walking sits or walking downs. Have your pet sit/stay while you reach into the box. Leave your dog on a stay and walk away; then, recall the dog to heel while you are in motion.
Is your pup learning to carry or to retrieve? Getting the mail is the perfect opportunity to let your pup practice by retrieving a piece of purposefully dropped junk mail and carry it back inside.
If you often meet up with neighbors at the cluster mailbox, this is a perfect time to practice socialization skills with your pup. Be sure you have treats to pass out to neighborhood children so that your dog can be petted by a variety of people. You may wish to introduce a command such "make friends," to insure that socialization is done only with your permission in appropriate circumstances.
Working in the Yard:
Place your dog on a down/stay as you move about the yard. Randomly, turn and face your dog, reinforcing the stay command. Periodically, break that pattern by either returning to your dog and releasing it or calling the dog to come to you.
Yard time is great for walking sits, walking downs, recall in motion, figure-8 heeling patterns - around two trees, two lawn chairs, etc.
Prior to taking the dog into the yard, place "forbidden" food items. Take your dog into the yard, on leash, and practice the "leave it" command. Be certain to have appropriate dog treats (food/ball/toy) for a reward.
"Leave it" can also involve chasing a rake or a broom. (Note: be certain never to practice this command when using power tools or equipment such as an edger or weed-whacker. Keep your pet, and yourself, safe.)
Teach your pet to be a good citizen by retrieving pop cans and placing them in the garbage. This "trick" is very impressive in the park and sets a great example for children.
Introduce your dog to water play after yard work. Whether running in the sprinklers or chasing ice cubes, remember to have fun.
Mealtime:
If allowed by your house rules, station your dog in a quiet, out of the way corner of your kitchen or dining room. If your rules say "no dogs in the kitchen," station the pup where he can still see you moving about. This is a great place to practice down/stay. There are lots of distractions: noise, odors, people coming and going, etc.
Use kitchen time to practice the "leave it" command, if your pup shows interest in food dropped on the floor.
If your dog is in front of a cabinet or pantry door, make it an opportunity to teach the command "move", by pointing to another place and encouraging the dog to relocate.
During dinner, place the dog on a down/stay under the table. No eye contact; no whining; no begging. Soon your pup will be ready to join you at a dog-friendly outdoor cafe and will be welcome on family camping trips. (Note: no people food should ever be given to the dog while you are eating. If you wish to offer table scraps, do so after you have finished and make certain they are placed in the dog's dish.)
Be Creative:
Chairs make wonderful obstacles for practicing heeling, right turns, left turns, about turns and figure-8 patterns. On a rainy day, train in the family room or dining room.
Teach your dog the command "under" using a coffee table, a child's desk or a hall bench. Make certain the item is appropriate for your pet's size. This command is great when hiking or visiting that outdoor cafe.
A ladder placed flat on the ground can help growing puppies learn to manipulate their hindquarters and become more sure-footed. Use lots of patience, praise and rewards to encourage your pup, on leash, to walk the length of the ladder, stepping over the rungs.
To encourage your pup to chew their toys/bones and not your furniture or clothing, establish a toy basket just for the pet. Place a variety of toys of variable textures and sizes in the basket--including plush toys, rawhide chews and a ball. To keep your pet interested, hide a few special treats in the basket before encouraging your pet to get a toy. You can eventually move the basket with you, to entertain a pup while working in your home office.
Times NOT To Train:
When you are not feeling well.
When you are angry, negative or upset.
When you are low on patience or out of energy.
When there are too many distractions for you in the training area.
When there are too many distractions for your dog's level of ability to concentrate on learning a new command. (Instead, try proofing your dog on commands that are already well understood).
When you are unclear how to perform or teach an exercise to your dog. Clarify what you should be doing, with your trainer, before working your dog.
In Summary:
Training is really all the little things you do each and every day, showing your dog what you expect from their behavior. Training should be a special time for you and your pet to enjoy being together. End each session with something your dog is good at doing--and praise, praise, praise.
____________________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado. Denver Dog Works is an all-breed training school that specializes in canine sports and working dogs. If you would like to find out more about our programs visit our website at www.DenverDogWorks.com or give us a call at 303-752-2818 anytime.
By Robert Forto, PhD
How many times have you said to yourself: "Gee, I need to practice with my dog, but I just don't have time to train today." A client recently said this very thing to me. Of course, having dogs most of my life, being a certified canine behaviorist and believing in practical training, I readily had an answer: "Do you have time to eat? Do you have time to watch television...even the news? Do you have time to get your mail? Do you have time to surf the Internet?"
Well, then you have time to train. Isn't the purpose of training your dog to improve communications with your pet and increase the harmony between all the 2-legged and 4-legged members of your family?
Training does not always have to mean going to a dog-friendly park. Training does not have to take place on a large field. Training does not always include special equipment and time spent setting it up. Training does not have to involve a 30-minute block of time. And, training should never be tedious or boring.
Training opportunities are all around you. There is no better place to begin than in the home and there is no better time than RIGHT NOW!
Note: Adjust each training suggestion to the appropriate level for you and your pup, increasing the difficulty as training progresses. If you have questions, please check with your trainer. Dr. Robert Forto of Denver Dog Works in Colorado offers many specialized training program for you and your dog. At Denver Dog Works most of our clients sign up for basic manners classes. These classes are designed to make your canine companion a welcomed member of your home.
TIPS - Training In Practical Situations
Watching Television:
Place the dog on a down/stay during each commercial break. If the pup is housetrained, allow it freedom during the program.
When your dog is easily holding a 5-minute down/stay, reverse the procedure. Have the dog do a down/stay during the program and practice a more active command, such as heel, during the commercial break.
As training progresses, place your dog on a down/stay and leave the immediate area during each commercial break. Remember to enforce the command before leaving the room and upon re-entering.
If crate training is an issue, place the dog into the crate during each commercial and allow the dog to come out during the program. Then flip the times in the crate and the times outside. The randomness of your actions will lessen anxiety associated with crate training, i.e. owner leaving home.
If your dog becomes nervous and anxious during thunderstorms rent a movie that features them, i.e. The Perfect Storm. With your dog on a down/stay by your side, start the movie and play it very softly. Play and replay the weather scenes - - very softly. As your dog becomes accustomed to the noise, g-r-a-d-u-a-l-l-y increase the volume. Do this several times over a period of days, or even weeks, until you have solved the problem. This method also works for gunfire. Remember: go slowly. There are also CDs available with specific sounds. Denver Dog Works can also tailor a training program that deals with noise phobias.
Getting the Mail:
Our mail is not delivered to our door; I must walk to the end of the drive. While it is not far I take the dog along and use this time for a lesson in heel, walking sits or walking downs. Have your pet sit/stay while you reach into the box. Leave your dog on a stay and walk away; then, recall the dog to heel while you are in motion.
Is your pup learning to carry or to retrieve? Getting the mail is the perfect opportunity to let your pup practice by retrieving a piece of purposefully dropped junk mail and carry it back inside.
If you often meet up with neighbors at the cluster mailbox, this is a perfect time to practice socialization skills with your pup. Be sure you have treats to pass out to neighborhood children so that your dog can be petted by a variety of people. You may wish to introduce a command such "make friends," to insure that socialization is done only with your permission in appropriate circumstances.
Working in the Yard:
Place your dog on a down/stay as you move about the yard. Randomly, turn and face your dog, reinforcing the stay command. Periodically, break that pattern by either returning to your dog and releasing it or calling the dog to come to you.
Yard time is great for walking sits, walking downs, recall in motion, figure-8 heeling patterns - around two trees, two lawn chairs, etc.
Prior to taking the dog into the yard, place "forbidden" food items. Take your dog into the yard, on leash, and practice the "leave it" command. Be certain to have appropriate dog treats (food/ball/toy) for a reward.
"Leave it" can also involve chasing a rake or a broom. (Note: be certain never to practice this command when using power tools or equipment such as an edger or weed-whacker. Keep your pet, and yourself, safe.)
Teach your pet to be a good citizen by retrieving pop cans and placing them in the garbage. This "trick" is very impressive in the park and sets a great example for children.
Introduce your dog to water play after yard work. Whether running in the sprinklers or chasing ice cubes, remember to have fun.
Mealtime:
If allowed by your house rules, station your dog in a quiet, out of the way corner of your kitchen or dining room. If your rules say "no dogs in the kitchen," station the pup where he can still see you moving about. This is a great place to practice down/stay. There are lots of distractions: noise, odors, people coming and going, etc.
Use kitchen time to practice the "leave it" command, if your pup shows interest in food dropped on the floor.
If your dog is in front of a cabinet or pantry door, make it an opportunity to teach the command "move", by pointing to another place and encouraging the dog to relocate.
During dinner, place the dog on a down/stay under the table. No eye contact; no whining; no begging. Soon your pup will be ready to join you at a dog-friendly outdoor cafe and will be welcome on family camping trips. (Note: no people food should ever be given to the dog while you are eating. If you wish to offer table scraps, do so after you have finished and make certain they are placed in the dog's dish.)
Be Creative:
Chairs make wonderful obstacles for practicing heeling, right turns, left turns, about turns and figure-8 patterns. On a rainy day, train in the family room or dining room.
Teach your dog the command "under" using a coffee table, a child's desk or a hall bench. Make certain the item is appropriate for your pet's size. This command is great when hiking or visiting that outdoor cafe.
A ladder placed flat on the ground can help growing puppies learn to manipulate their hindquarters and become more sure-footed. Use lots of patience, praise and rewards to encourage your pup, on leash, to walk the length of the ladder, stepping over the rungs.
To encourage your pup to chew their toys/bones and not your furniture or clothing, establish a toy basket just for the pet. Place a variety of toys of variable textures and sizes in the basket--including plush toys, rawhide chews and a ball. To keep your pet interested, hide a few special treats in the basket before encouraging your pet to get a toy. You can eventually move the basket with you, to entertain a pup while working in your home office.
Times NOT To Train:
When you are not feeling well.
When you are angry, negative or upset.
When you are low on patience or out of energy.
When there are too many distractions for you in the training area.
When there are too many distractions for your dog's level of ability to concentrate on learning a new command. (Instead, try proofing your dog on commands that are already well understood).
When you are unclear how to perform or teach an exercise to your dog. Clarify what you should be doing, with your trainer, before working your dog.
In Summary:
Training is really all the little things you do each and every day, showing your dog what you expect from their behavior. Training should be a special time for you and your pet to enjoy being together. End each session with something your dog is good at doing--and praise, praise, praise.
____________________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado. Denver Dog Works is an all-breed training school that specializes in canine sports and working dogs. If you would like to find out more about our programs visit our website at www.DenverDogWorks.com or give us a call at 303-752-2818 anytime.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
30 Days for Bonding
30 Days of Bonding
By Robert Forto, PhD
As a breeder of World Class German Shepherds I cannot stress enough how important it is for a new puppy owner to bond with their dog. I see time and time again where these new dog owners do not understand how important it is to integrate the new puppy into the family. Remember your new dog does not know you or your family. He/she will bond with you and your family in approximately thirty days. During this bonding there are going to be some things you do and do not do...
Do not leave your dog unattended with your children until the bond is complete. Tell your children not to rush up to the dog but to let the dog come to them. Entice the dog to come to them with food treats. If the dog does not want to approach them, don't worry, he/she will in a few days. Do not force people on the dog; he will become comfortable with your family in a few days.
The dog will be fed twice a day. Have your family take turns feeding the dog. Have them take the food bowl to the dog, put it down and then leave the dog alone while he/she eats. Do not bother the dog while he/she eats. Always feed the dog in the same place, preferably his kennel, the garage, etc.
If you are going to leave the dog alone, leave him/her in a crate until the bond is complete and the dog becomes comfortable in his/her surroundings. The dog will sleep in the crate at night. The crate can be put wherever you want.
Do not reach into the crate and try to grab your dog. Remember you have no bond yet. Bring the dog out to you with food or a toy. You must show the dog that you are his/her friend. Everything must be positive.
When playing fetch, use the two toy method until you have a good bond with the dog. Playing with the dog is a good way to make the dog comfortable with you. Have the children play fetch with the dog also. Do not attempt to grab the toy from the dog's mouth. First ask the dog to drop the toy for you. If he/she does not drop the toy, give him/her the command to drop it, at the same time showing the dog the other toy. When the dog drops the first toy, throw the other toy for the dog. This method will also strengthen your recall, because when the dog goes after the toy you threw, you will show him the second toy when you call him to bring you the first toy. (The best toys are rubber "KONGS" available in any pet store.)
If your children bring their friends to the house, be sure to secure the dog. Remember, your children's friends have not been taught like your children on how to act around the dog. Tell your friends not to force themselves on the dog, If the dog wants to be petted he will approach them. If you are going to have a party or have several friends over, put the dog away.
Playing, feeding and spending positive time with your dog is the best way to seal the bond. Do not try and force your dog to do anything like obedience, etc. Have the dog do what you want by using food rewards and praise. This positive reinforcement method will work the best for you if you are consistent. You will see the dog react to this method in a very short time. Remember you will be attending training classes at our facility after the thirty day bonding period.
Remember if you have other animals such as cats, birds, horses or any other type of livestock, your new dog will have to be socialized with them and taught how to behave around them. This is something you have to be consistent with until your new dog is comfortable around the other animals.
If you purchase a dog from Denver Dog Works remember your dog is already trained. Now you and your family must learn how to handle the dog properly by attending the prescribed training. It will be your job to explain this information to any other adult in the immediate family. If you are purchasing a puppy it is a good idea to enroll in a puppy class. Denver Dog Works has a new puppy class starting the first Saturday of each month. Give us a call for details.
Be sure you have read all the forms and handouts you have received from the breeder and/or in obedience class thoroughly. Do you research on your breed, his/her temperament, and personality. Familiarize yourself with puppy traits and behavioral problems. If you have any questions ASK!!! Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Do’s and Don’ts
REMEMBER TO BE PATIENT! YOU HAVE 30 DAYS TO BOND WITH YOUR DOG.
DO NOT! Let your dog sleep out of his crate for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks he can sleep out of his crate every other night for the next week.
DO NOT! Leave your dog loose or unattended in the house for the first two weeks. If you are going to leave the dog at home, confine him in his crate. If you plan on leaving the dog in the house unattended after he is finished with his training, after the first two weeks you can start leaving him unattended for short periods of time and slowly keep extending the time.
Be sure to take him out frequently to relieve himself, he is house broken, but he will be in a new area and may be excited and forget, so you will have to reinforce the training.
After the first two weeks, you will start some obedience work, so you will need to contact Denver Dog Works anytime after the first two weeks are up so we can help you get started. You will more than likely be enrolled in one of our Saturday obedience classes.
If you are having a problem or even think you are having a problem, you are to contact us right away. A Denver Dog Works instructor will call you back within the day. Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question!
DO NOT! Let your dog do anything you do not want him to do later on in his life. Remember you are the BOSS (pack leader). Your dog does not sleep on the bed or get on the furniture EVER! This can cause training and behavior problems in the future. If you want to sit or lay next to your dog, you go to him on the floor.
During the bonding period you should give your dog food rewards when you call him to you or when he/she does something good.
Training should start the day you bring your dog home. This is not only a great opportunity to form that life-long bond but also does not allow bad habits to develop. Often we will see dog owners come into Denver Dog Works when their puppy is six months old and the owners are at wits end and ready to give up. The first question I always ask is why did you wait so long? The most common answer is they wanted the dog to be a puppy. What a mistake! Would you not allow your children not to attend elementary school because you just wanted them to be a kid? No way! The same goes with dogs.
Just remember five simple things: exercise your dog often, be consistent, be patient, give Denver Dog Works a call if you have a question or a problem, and…
GOOD LUCK!
____________________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He specializes in canine sports and aggression. If you would like to contact Dr. Robert Forto he can be reached through is website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-752-2818 anytime.
By Robert Forto, PhD
As a breeder of World Class German Shepherds I cannot stress enough how important it is for a new puppy owner to bond with their dog. I see time and time again where these new dog owners do not understand how important it is to integrate the new puppy into the family. Remember your new dog does not know you or your family. He/she will bond with you and your family in approximately thirty days. During this bonding there are going to be some things you do and do not do...
Do not leave your dog unattended with your children until the bond is complete. Tell your children not to rush up to the dog but to let the dog come to them. Entice the dog to come to them with food treats. If the dog does not want to approach them, don't worry, he/she will in a few days. Do not force people on the dog; he will become comfortable with your family in a few days.
The dog will be fed twice a day. Have your family take turns feeding the dog. Have them take the food bowl to the dog, put it down and then leave the dog alone while he/she eats. Do not bother the dog while he/she eats. Always feed the dog in the same place, preferably his kennel, the garage, etc.
If you are going to leave the dog alone, leave him/her in a crate until the bond is complete and the dog becomes comfortable in his/her surroundings. The dog will sleep in the crate at night. The crate can be put wherever you want.
Do not reach into the crate and try to grab your dog. Remember you have no bond yet. Bring the dog out to you with food or a toy. You must show the dog that you are his/her friend. Everything must be positive.
When playing fetch, use the two toy method until you have a good bond with the dog. Playing with the dog is a good way to make the dog comfortable with you. Have the children play fetch with the dog also. Do not attempt to grab the toy from the dog's mouth. First ask the dog to drop the toy for you. If he/she does not drop the toy, give him/her the command to drop it, at the same time showing the dog the other toy. When the dog drops the first toy, throw the other toy for the dog. This method will also strengthen your recall, because when the dog goes after the toy you threw, you will show him the second toy when you call him to bring you the first toy. (The best toys are rubber "KONGS" available in any pet store.)
If your children bring their friends to the house, be sure to secure the dog. Remember, your children's friends have not been taught like your children on how to act around the dog. Tell your friends not to force themselves on the dog, If the dog wants to be petted he will approach them. If you are going to have a party or have several friends over, put the dog away.
Playing, feeding and spending positive time with your dog is the best way to seal the bond. Do not try and force your dog to do anything like obedience, etc. Have the dog do what you want by using food rewards and praise. This positive reinforcement method will work the best for you if you are consistent. You will see the dog react to this method in a very short time. Remember you will be attending training classes at our facility after the thirty day bonding period.
Remember if you have other animals such as cats, birds, horses or any other type of livestock, your new dog will have to be socialized with them and taught how to behave around them. This is something you have to be consistent with until your new dog is comfortable around the other animals.
If you purchase a dog from Denver Dog Works remember your dog is already trained. Now you and your family must learn how to handle the dog properly by attending the prescribed training. It will be your job to explain this information to any other adult in the immediate family. If you are purchasing a puppy it is a good idea to enroll in a puppy class. Denver Dog Works has a new puppy class starting the first Saturday of each month. Give us a call for details.
Be sure you have read all the forms and handouts you have received from the breeder and/or in obedience class thoroughly. Do you research on your breed, his/her temperament, and personality. Familiarize yourself with puppy traits and behavioral problems. If you have any questions ASK!!! Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Do’s and Don’ts
REMEMBER TO BE PATIENT! YOU HAVE 30 DAYS TO BOND WITH YOUR DOG.
DO NOT! Let your dog sleep out of his crate for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks he can sleep out of his crate every other night for the next week.
DO NOT! Leave your dog loose or unattended in the house for the first two weeks. If you are going to leave the dog at home, confine him in his crate. If you plan on leaving the dog in the house unattended after he is finished with his training, after the first two weeks you can start leaving him unattended for short periods of time and slowly keep extending the time.
Be sure to take him out frequently to relieve himself, he is house broken, but he will be in a new area and may be excited and forget, so you will have to reinforce the training.
After the first two weeks, you will start some obedience work, so you will need to contact Denver Dog Works anytime after the first two weeks are up so we can help you get started. You will more than likely be enrolled in one of our Saturday obedience classes.
If you are having a problem or even think you are having a problem, you are to contact us right away. A Denver Dog Works instructor will call you back within the day. Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question!
DO NOT! Let your dog do anything you do not want him to do later on in his life. Remember you are the BOSS (pack leader). Your dog does not sleep on the bed or get on the furniture EVER! This can cause training and behavior problems in the future. If you want to sit or lay next to your dog, you go to him on the floor.
During the bonding period you should give your dog food rewards when you call him to you or when he/she does something good.
Training should start the day you bring your dog home. This is not only a great opportunity to form that life-long bond but also does not allow bad habits to develop. Often we will see dog owners come into Denver Dog Works when their puppy is six months old and the owners are at wits end and ready to give up. The first question I always ask is why did you wait so long? The most common answer is they wanted the dog to be a puppy. What a mistake! Would you not allow your children not to attend elementary school because you just wanted them to be a kid? No way! The same goes with dogs.
Just remember five simple things: exercise your dog often, be consistent, be patient, give Denver Dog Works a call if you have a question or a problem, and…
GOOD LUCK!
____________________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He specializes in canine sports and aggression. If you would like to contact Dr. Robert Forto he can be reached through is website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-752-2818 anytime.
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Crate Training for Your Puppy
Crate Training for Your Puppy
By Robert Forto, PhD
One of the most common training questions asked to us at Denver Dog Works in Colorado is: “How do I house-train my puppy?” While there are many different ways to accomplish this task one tried and true way I have found that works is crate training. Some may say that it is cruel and unnatural. That is the furthest from the truth. I have enclosed I brief outline of how to introduce your puppy to a crate, Of course if you have any questions do not hesitate to give us a call at Denver Dog Works at 303-752-2818 anytime.
One of the best items you could purchase for yourself, as well as, your dog is the dog crate. This crate can be made of wire, metal, plastic, and/or collapsible nylon and mesh. All are easy to clean. This crate can help solve behavior problems, provide safety for your dog, and can become your dogs inside home when appropriate times occur.
Wild canines will secure a small, snugly fitting space to call its own. This space represents security to the dog. In its “den” it cannot be attacked or bothered, so it is able to completely relax. We use this instinctive desire for a secure den to make our crate training a very effective training aid.
ASK YOUR TRAINER ABOUT THE PROPER SIZE FOR YOUR DOG.
To introduce your dog to its crate, prop the door open and allow the dog to explore the confines of the crate. Placing food or the dogs’ favorite objects inside will encourage him to step inside. When your dog is comfortable with this, close the door for a few minutes, then let him out and DO NOT make a big deal about letting him out. Each time you put your dog on its crate, increase the time it is confined. Both you and your dog should think of the crate as a safe haven, NOT a prison. Once you have experienced the benefits of crate training your dog, you will question how you ever lived without this wonderful training aid.
USES FOR YOUR CRATE
It is very effective when house training puppies. Puppies instinctively will not soil their bed.
Use your crate for TIME OUT when your puppy or dog is just too wound up.
Use your crate as prevention to your puppy making mistakes when you’re not able to watch.
Use you crate to confine your dog for a few minutes prior to a training session.
Use your crate while transporting your dog in your vehicle; this is the safest place for a dog.
Your crate makes a great bed for your dog.
If your dog is a chewer, use your crate as a safe place of confinement with some safe toys.
Some dogs are finicky eaters; placing their food in the crate lets them concentrate more on the food.
You can use the crate to separate dogs during feeding time, as well as people meal times.
Shipping your dog by air is much easier if he/she has been taught to use a crate.
If your dog is ever in need to stay overnight at a veterinarian clinic it helps your dog remain calm in very stressful situations.
When introducing the crate to your puppy or dog place it in a quiet area where he/she will not be bothered or startled. This will help with training him/her that their “den” is their safe place to be.
Don’t wait until the last minute to introduce your dog to its crate, make it a part of your training plan today!
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. His training school offers monthly puppy kindergarten classes staring on the first Saturday of each month. If you are interested in training your dog the natural way give Dr. Forto a call at 303-752-2818 or check out his website at www.denverdogworks.com.
By Robert Forto, PhD
One of the most common training questions asked to us at Denver Dog Works in Colorado is: “How do I house-train my puppy?” While there are many different ways to accomplish this task one tried and true way I have found that works is crate training. Some may say that it is cruel and unnatural. That is the furthest from the truth. I have enclosed I brief outline of how to introduce your puppy to a crate, Of course if you have any questions do not hesitate to give us a call at Denver Dog Works at 303-752-2818 anytime.
One of the best items you could purchase for yourself, as well as, your dog is the dog crate. This crate can be made of wire, metal, plastic, and/or collapsible nylon and mesh. All are easy to clean. This crate can help solve behavior problems, provide safety for your dog, and can become your dogs inside home when appropriate times occur.
Wild canines will secure a small, snugly fitting space to call its own. This space represents security to the dog. In its “den” it cannot be attacked or bothered, so it is able to completely relax. We use this instinctive desire for a secure den to make our crate training a very effective training aid.
ASK YOUR TRAINER ABOUT THE PROPER SIZE FOR YOUR DOG.
To introduce your dog to its crate, prop the door open and allow the dog to explore the confines of the crate. Placing food or the dogs’ favorite objects inside will encourage him to step inside. When your dog is comfortable with this, close the door for a few minutes, then let him out and DO NOT make a big deal about letting him out. Each time you put your dog on its crate, increase the time it is confined. Both you and your dog should think of the crate as a safe haven, NOT a prison. Once you have experienced the benefits of crate training your dog, you will question how you ever lived without this wonderful training aid.
USES FOR YOUR CRATE
It is very effective when house training puppies. Puppies instinctively will not soil their bed.
Use your crate for TIME OUT when your puppy or dog is just too wound up.
Use your crate as prevention to your puppy making mistakes when you’re not able to watch.
Use you crate to confine your dog for a few minutes prior to a training session.
Use your crate while transporting your dog in your vehicle; this is the safest place for a dog.
Your crate makes a great bed for your dog.
If your dog is a chewer, use your crate as a safe place of confinement with some safe toys.
Some dogs are finicky eaters; placing their food in the crate lets them concentrate more on the food.
You can use the crate to separate dogs during feeding time, as well as people meal times.
Shipping your dog by air is much easier if he/she has been taught to use a crate.
If your dog is ever in need to stay overnight at a veterinarian clinic it helps your dog remain calm in very stressful situations.
When introducing the crate to your puppy or dog place it in a quiet area where he/she will not be bothered or startled. This will help with training him/her that their “den” is their safe place to be.
Don’t wait until the last minute to introduce your dog to its crate, make it a part of your training plan today!
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. His training school offers monthly puppy kindergarten classes staring on the first Saturday of each month. If you are interested in training your dog the natural way give Dr. Forto a call at 303-752-2818 or check out his website at www.denverdogworks.com.
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Puppies 101
Puppies 101
By Robert Forto, PhD
One of the most common questions new dog owners ask us at Denver Dog Works in Colorado is “How do I train my new puppy?” A well-trained dog is a true joy to own, but new pet owners have little experience training animals. These pointers will help you to establish a happy, loving relationship with your new pet. We at Denver Dog Works also strongly recommend new owners enroll in our Puppy Class. These classes start monthly on the first Saturday at our training center at 10400 E. Evans Avenue Denver Colorado 80247. This four-week course teaches you everything you need to know about raising a healthy, confident dog.
People often tell us that they want to wait until the puppy is a little older before enrolling in an obedience class. Training should begin the day you bring your puppy home. If you wait until he is six months old, imagine all of the bad habits that can develop. That is 180-days of accidents, trials and tribulations, biting and mouthing, and a lack of proper socialization. Your cute, cuddly little puppy will grow up quick. Give him the gift of a routine and consistency, and you will thank him for it later.
All in the Family
Even though he realizes that you are not a dog, the only way your puppy knows how to relate to other creatures is if they were dogs. With this in mind, you must learn “dog leadership skills” to let your dog know that you are the pack leader. Any family member who doesn’t do this may be bossed around by the dog, and even bitten.
One of the best techniques for teaching your puppy his social position is a technique that I call “Nothing in Life is Free.” First, you train your puppy to sit, or better yet, lie down. Then you teach a releasing command such as “Free Dog!” This means that the dog is free to do whatever he wants again. At first, the time spent sitting will be brief. Never reward your dog when gets up on his own, but always reward him if he remains sitting until released. Say “Good dog” and give a food reward at first (small pieces of hot dog or string cheese work best); later the verbal reward can be used alone.
Now ask your puppy to sit for anything he wants in your household except water. This means that he must assume a submissive body posture in order to get dinner, let out, petted or played with. In these situations, the reward is what the pup wanted in the first place, so no food reward is necessary. Soon the pup will sit on his own when he wants something. This is akin to teaching your children to say “Please” when they want something.
A Big Wide World
The crucial period for socialization in dogs is between four and fourteen weeks. During this time, expose your puppy to as many different people and situations as possible. Remember that a puppy does not realize that children of various ages eventually will be grown-ups. Introduce cats, other adult dogs, wheelchairs, cars, noises, and enroll him in a puppy class as soon as possible.
Stopping that Chewing
Puppies just like children, go through a teething period as well as an oral exploration phase, where everything seems to end up in their mouths. One of the easiest ways to prevent your puppy from chewing you out of house and home is to set him up for success. Give him a variety of safe chew toys such as Kongs®. Tuck food treats inside to stimulate your puppy’s interest. I make a puppy popsicles by placing a Milkbone® dog treat and a teaspoon of peanut butter in the Kong® and freezing it. This will provide hours of stimulation for your pup. I advise that you have two on hand at all times.
Do not expect the puppy to differentiate between old socks or shoes and new ones, or between a rag you’re taunting him with and a fluttering curtain. Always be sure that he has several appropriate chew toys in his crate with him. While you are monitoring him closely to get him housebroken, also watch for inappropriate chewing. Whenever you catch him chewing on anything other than his toys say, “No,” then redirect his attention to a chew toy. This may require you to carry a few toys in your pockets during this training period.
Chewing can also be directed towards people. Always use a toy when playing with your puppy—whenever you play with just your hands, you are training him that humans are chew toys from the wrist down. If your puppy mouths you, do exactly what another puppy who did not want to be bitten would do—make a high-pitched shrieking sound and leave. Your puppy will learn that people are wimpy, and that he simply cannot “play rough” with humans.
Now that you have a housebroken, well-socialized, polite puppy, consider obedience training. There is no better gift for your puppy than a lifelong commitment from you, and that includes continual learning. If you are interested in our puppy classes or any of our programs please check out our website at www.DenverDogWorks.com or give Dr. Robert Forto a call at 303-752-2810 anytime.
By Robert Forto, PhD
One of the most common questions new dog owners ask us at Denver Dog Works in Colorado is “How do I train my new puppy?” A well-trained dog is a true joy to own, but new pet owners have little experience training animals. These pointers will help you to establish a happy, loving relationship with your new pet. We at Denver Dog Works also strongly recommend new owners enroll in our Puppy Class. These classes start monthly on the first Saturday at our training center at 10400 E. Evans Avenue Denver Colorado 80247. This four-week course teaches you everything you need to know about raising a healthy, confident dog.
People often tell us that they want to wait until the puppy is a little older before enrolling in an obedience class. Training should begin the day you bring your puppy home. If you wait until he is six months old, imagine all of the bad habits that can develop. That is 180-days of accidents, trials and tribulations, biting and mouthing, and a lack of proper socialization. Your cute, cuddly little puppy will grow up quick. Give him the gift of a routine and consistency, and you will thank him for it later.
All in the Family
Even though he realizes that you are not a dog, the only way your puppy knows how to relate to other creatures is if they were dogs. With this in mind, you must learn “dog leadership skills” to let your dog know that you are the pack leader. Any family member who doesn’t do this may be bossed around by the dog, and even bitten.
One of the best techniques for teaching your puppy his social position is a technique that I call “Nothing in Life is Free.” First, you train your puppy to sit, or better yet, lie down. Then you teach a releasing command such as “Free Dog!” This means that the dog is free to do whatever he wants again. At first, the time spent sitting will be brief. Never reward your dog when gets up on his own, but always reward him if he remains sitting until released. Say “Good dog” and give a food reward at first (small pieces of hot dog or string cheese work best); later the verbal reward can be used alone.
Now ask your puppy to sit for anything he wants in your household except water. This means that he must assume a submissive body posture in order to get dinner, let out, petted or played with. In these situations, the reward is what the pup wanted in the first place, so no food reward is necessary. Soon the pup will sit on his own when he wants something. This is akin to teaching your children to say “Please” when they want something.
A Big Wide World
The crucial period for socialization in dogs is between four and fourteen weeks. During this time, expose your puppy to as many different people and situations as possible. Remember that a puppy does not realize that children of various ages eventually will be grown-ups. Introduce cats, other adult dogs, wheelchairs, cars, noises, and enroll him in a puppy class as soon as possible.
Stopping that Chewing
Puppies just like children, go through a teething period as well as an oral exploration phase, where everything seems to end up in their mouths. One of the easiest ways to prevent your puppy from chewing you out of house and home is to set him up for success. Give him a variety of safe chew toys such as Kongs®. Tuck food treats inside to stimulate your puppy’s interest. I make a puppy popsicles by placing a Milkbone® dog treat and a teaspoon of peanut butter in the Kong® and freezing it. This will provide hours of stimulation for your pup. I advise that you have two on hand at all times.
Do not expect the puppy to differentiate between old socks or shoes and new ones, or between a rag you’re taunting him with and a fluttering curtain. Always be sure that he has several appropriate chew toys in his crate with him. While you are monitoring him closely to get him housebroken, also watch for inappropriate chewing. Whenever you catch him chewing on anything other than his toys say, “No,” then redirect his attention to a chew toy. This may require you to carry a few toys in your pockets during this training period.
Chewing can also be directed towards people. Always use a toy when playing with your puppy—whenever you play with just your hands, you are training him that humans are chew toys from the wrist down. If your puppy mouths you, do exactly what another puppy who did not want to be bitten would do—make a high-pitched shrieking sound and leave. Your puppy will learn that people are wimpy, and that he simply cannot “play rough” with humans.
Now that you have a housebroken, well-socialized, polite puppy, consider obedience training. There is no better gift for your puppy than a lifelong commitment from you, and that includes continual learning. If you are interested in our puppy classes or any of our programs please check out our website at www.DenverDogWorks.com or give Dr. Robert Forto a call at 303-752-2810 anytime.
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Never Forget Your Dreams
Never Forget Your Dreams
By Robert Forto, PhD
My life’s passion and my life’s work is dog sled racing. My lifelong dream is to run the Iditarod sled dog race in Alaska. The Last Great Race. I am 37-years old now and one day before I am old and gray I will run that race. While I am sure I will not win, I will at least complete it and get to the finish line in Nome, a mere 1049-miles away. I have even named my company after this quest—Dreamchaser Kennels. I will chase and fulfill this dream.
The running of the Last Great Race, as it is called, started the first weekend of March and the winner of this year’s race was Lance Mackey. He won last year as well. Mackey, like every other musher, as they are called, has a unique story to tell. Don’t we all? Mackey is a cancer survivor, a tremendous feat in itself but he had the guts, passion, determination, and most importantly the drive to complete this race. He won in just a little over nine, yes, nine days. He won 69,000 dollars and a new truck. When asked about his winnings: “By winning, it allows me not to have to get a real job”, says Mackey.
This week’s blog is dedicated to this race and one of the men that made it all possible. His name is Leonhard Seppala. While he is not a household name like the athletes, musicians, and movie stars of today, those who know about the Iditarod and dog sled racing, his name is instantly recognizable.
The following is an excerpt from my doctoral dissertation titled: Chasing the Dream: The History of Human-Canine Communication in the Sport of Dog Sledding. (2005). I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to read it in its entirety check out my website at http://www.denverdogworks.com/ and it is available to download.
No dog driver has the status, the renown and the respect of his colleagues as does Leonhard Seppala. His fame has lasted far beyond his brief national acclaim following the race to Nome against an epidemic. His greatness has long outlasted his success as a racer. Before his death in 1967 at the age of ninety, Seppala had been made an honorary member of four prestigious organizations: The Siberian Husky Club of America, The International Siberian Husky Club (which was originally chartered as the Seppala Siberian Husky Club), The New England Sled Dog Club and The Norwegian Sled Dog Club.
The longest sled dog race in North America was named for Seppala. When thirty four dog teams left the starting line in Anchorage on March 3, 1973 bound for Nome, in the first thousand-mile Seppala Memorial Iditarod Trail Race, no driver wore Number One. Starting position Number One had been reserved in memory of the most distinguished dog driver of all time.
In 1961, at a testimonial banquet at the Alaska Press Club, Lowe Thomas introduced the 84-year-old musher with sparkling blue eyes as “the greatest dog team driver that ever lived.” For Seppala was an original, an innovator, and a pioneer. There was no aspect of dog driving he left untouched. Even today, over one hundred years after his birth, many Siberian Huskies that race today are descended from Seppala’s Siberians.
At the turn of the century young Seppala left his native Norway, his father’s fishing boat and his apprenticeship with a blacksmith, to join the hundreds of new explorers seeking their fortune in the gold fields of Alaska. He soon discovered that a steady, if less spectacular, way to make money was to have a dog team and to freight supplies to the miners. Within a few years Seppala had the reputation as one of the best dog punchers in the new territory.
His life swerved onto a new trail when inspired by the excitement of the new sled dog races in Nome, he entered and won his first race at age thirty-six. The next year, 1914, he entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes with a team of young Siberian dogs he had been training for the explorer Roald Amundsen. After losing the trail and injuring his dogs, Seppala finished last. He started that race with a leader named Suggen, and he was hooked on sled dog racing. Seppala trained hard and in secret, far away from town and returned to win the race by over an hour in 1915. He repeated this feat in 1916, and 1917, winning both Sweepstakes by large margins. Seppala was to obtain permanent possession of the Siberians when Amundsen’s North Pole trip was cancelled. Seppala’s appreciation of the imported huskies was immediately apparent and years later he wrote, “Once more the little Siberians had proved their superiority over the other dogs and I was proud to have been their driver and to have brought them in such good condition.”
Seppala’s continuing success put him on “top of the list when the chairman of Nome’s Board of Health was looking for fast teams to go for the diphtheria serum being relayed in from Anchorage.” Seppala’s leader by then was Togo, a son of Suggen. Togo, destined to be a hero as the result of his valiant leadership across the trackless treachery of Norton Sound, began life as a spoiled, hard to handle pup. He was the offspring of some of Fox Ramsay’s Siberian imports. Part of his early training including running free beside the big team, which he loved, but one day he ran into a team of tough Malamutes and was badly chewed up. Perhaps this is one of the ways a future lead dog learns part of his lessons, for Togo became the best passer Seppala ever had. Togo was a master at leading his team well out of reach of any other dogs on the trail.
After the successful life-saving race to Nome, Seppala toured the East Coast of the United States. In 1927 he took his whole team to New England and proceeded to win race after race. He won New England Sled Dog Club races in Maine and New Hampshire; he won Eastern International Dog Derby’s in Quebec; he raced in Lake Placid, although Canada’s great Emile St. Godard did beat him for first place in the Olympic Games exhibition race. Everywhere he went, if he was not actually racing, he was “talking dogs.” Many future dog drivers learned the basics, the fun and the dangers of driving sled dogs by listening whenever “Sepp” was around.
Eastern mushers became just as enamored of the Siberian Huskies as was Seppala and, with his help; selective breeding programs were started at several kennels. Seppala was looking for a slightly larger dog without diminishing alertness, grace and the lightness of foot had contributed to this natural breed’s success in racing. These new kennels provided this by mixing their bloodlines with his.
In addition to the dogs, Seppala introduced to the East at least two innovations to the sport of dog sled racing. To New Englander’s familiar with the single file freight hitch brought from Alaska by Arthur Walden, Seppala’s method of hooking the dogs in pairs with a single leader looked strange. Nothing bodes better for an innovation than success however, and this double tandem hitch, with occasional slight modifications, is standard in races today. The other novelty presented by Seppala was the driver’s more active participation in the race. Although dog punchers and long-distance racers usually ran beside their sleds, the sprint racers would stand on the runners of their lighter sleds, jumping off only to run uphill. Seppala broke through this prevailing concept by introducing a pedaling motion. With one leg, as though on a scooter, timing his push with the dogs’ strides to keep the sled moving at an even rate.
Seppala and his wife returned to Alaska in the mid-thirties, and then after retirement moved to Seattle, Washington. In 1960 the chipper little man flew to Laconia, New Hampshire to serve as honorary judge at the World Championships Sled Dog Derby. He was eighty-three years young and still delighted with the sled dogs. He reflected on his forty-five years of dog driving, his quarter of a million miles by dog team, his ninety-three silver cups and eight gold medals. The people of Laconia knew they were witnessing a giant in the sport.
Beyond the trophies, the Seppala-strain sled dogs, the inspired dog drivers, the innovations and contributions to the sport, lies the quality of the man. In a sport where handling dogs well is a necessity, the best still pay tribute to Seppala’s skillful relationship with his dogs. In a sport where some try to win with pressure and punishment, Seppala’s unequalled triumphs were achieved with kindness and encouragement. A driver could be running a good race, but he knew if Seppala was in it, chances were good that the little Siberian team would go flying past, almost soundless. Many mushers would say that Seppala would just cluck them every now and then, and the dogs would lay into their harnesses harder than they have ever seen before. One competitor said, “Something came out of him and went into those dogs with that clucking sound. He passed me every day of the race and I wasn’t loafing any.”
After a long day Seppala would reach for his parka and cap and go out to his dogs one more time before retiring for the night to check on their comfort. Out would go that little weather-beaten Alaskan, a man who pinned his faith and his life on the good health, endurance and loyalty of his dogs.
Dr. Robert Forto is a certified canine behaviorist and owner of Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He specializes in canine aggression and dangerous dogs. He is also an avid musher and winter sports enthusiast. Dr. Forto can be contacted via his website http://www.denverdogworks.com/ and by phone at 303-752-2818.
By Robert Forto, PhD
My life’s passion and my life’s work is dog sled racing. My lifelong dream is to run the Iditarod sled dog race in Alaska. The Last Great Race. I am 37-years old now and one day before I am old and gray I will run that race. While I am sure I will not win, I will at least complete it and get to the finish line in Nome, a mere 1049-miles away. I have even named my company after this quest—Dreamchaser Kennels. I will chase and fulfill this dream.
The running of the Last Great Race, as it is called, started the first weekend of March and the winner of this year’s race was Lance Mackey. He won last year as well. Mackey, like every other musher, as they are called, has a unique story to tell. Don’t we all? Mackey is a cancer survivor, a tremendous feat in itself but he had the guts, passion, determination, and most importantly the drive to complete this race. He won in just a little over nine, yes, nine days. He won 69,000 dollars and a new truck. When asked about his winnings: “By winning, it allows me not to have to get a real job”, says Mackey.
This week’s blog is dedicated to this race and one of the men that made it all possible. His name is Leonhard Seppala. While he is not a household name like the athletes, musicians, and movie stars of today, those who know about the Iditarod and dog sled racing, his name is instantly recognizable.
The following is an excerpt from my doctoral dissertation titled: Chasing the Dream: The History of Human-Canine Communication in the Sport of Dog Sledding. (2005). I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to read it in its entirety check out my website at http://www.denverdogworks.com/ and it is available to download.
No dog driver has the status, the renown and the respect of his colleagues as does Leonhard Seppala. His fame has lasted far beyond his brief national acclaim following the race to Nome against an epidemic. His greatness has long outlasted his success as a racer. Before his death in 1967 at the age of ninety, Seppala had been made an honorary member of four prestigious organizations: The Siberian Husky Club of America, The International Siberian Husky Club (which was originally chartered as the Seppala Siberian Husky Club), The New England Sled Dog Club and The Norwegian Sled Dog Club.
The longest sled dog race in North America was named for Seppala. When thirty four dog teams left the starting line in Anchorage on March 3, 1973 bound for Nome, in the first thousand-mile Seppala Memorial Iditarod Trail Race, no driver wore Number One. Starting position Number One had been reserved in memory of the most distinguished dog driver of all time.
In 1961, at a testimonial banquet at the Alaska Press Club, Lowe Thomas introduced the 84-year-old musher with sparkling blue eyes as “the greatest dog team driver that ever lived.” For Seppala was an original, an innovator, and a pioneer. There was no aspect of dog driving he left untouched. Even today, over one hundred years after his birth, many Siberian Huskies that race today are descended from Seppala’s Siberians.
At the turn of the century young Seppala left his native Norway, his father’s fishing boat and his apprenticeship with a blacksmith, to join the hundreds of new explorers seeking their fortune in the gold fields of Alaska. He soon discovered that a steady, if less spectacular, way to make money was to have a dog team and to freight supplies to the miners. Within a few years Seppala had the reputation as one of the best dog punchers in the new territory.
His life swerved onto a new trail when inspired by the excitement of the new sled dog races in Nome, he entered and won his first race at age thirty-six. The next year, 1914, he entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes with a team of young Siberian dogs he had been training for the explorer Roald Amundsen. After losing the trail and injuring his dogs, Seppala finished last. He started that race with a leader named Suggen, and he was hooked on sled dog racing. Seppala trained hard and in secret, far away from town and returned to win the race by over an hour in 1915. He repeated this feat in 1916, and 1917, winning both Sweepstakes by large margins. Seppala was to obtain permanent possession of the Siberians when Amundsen’s North Pole trip was cancelled. Seppala’s appreciation of the imported huskies was immediately apparent and years later he wrote, “Once more the little Siberians had proved their superiority over the other dogs and I was proud to have been their driver and to have brought them in such good condition.”
Seppala’s continuing success put him on “top of the list when the chairman of Nome’s Board of Health was looking for fast teams to go for the diphtheria serum being relayed in from Anchorage.” Seppala’s leader by then was Togo, a son of Suggen. Togo, destined to be a hero as the result of his valiant leadership across the trackless treachery of Norton Sound, began life as a spoiled, hard to handle pup. He was the offspring of some of Fox Ramsay’s Siberian imports. Part of his early training including running free beside the big team, which he loved, but one day he ran into a team of tough Malamutes and was badly chewed up. Perhaps this is one of the ways a future lead dog learns part of his lessons, for Togo became the best passer Seppala ever had. Togo was a master at leading his team well out of reach of any other dogs on the trail.
After the successful life-saving race to Nome, Seppala toured the East Coast of the United States. In 1927 he took his whole team to New England and proceeded to win race after race. He won New England Sled Dog Club races in Maine and New Hampshire; he won Eastern International Dog Derby’s in Quebec; he raced in Lake Placid, although Canada’s great Emile St. Godard did beat him for first place in the Olympic Games exhibition race. Everywhere he went, if he was not actually racing, he was “talking dogs.” Many future dog drivers learned the basics, the fun and the dangers of driving sled dogs by listening whenever “Sepp” was around.
Eastern mushers became just as enamored of the Siberian Huskies as was Seppala and, with his help; selective breeding programs were started at several kennels. Seppala was looking for a slightly larger dog without diminishing alertness, grace and the lightness of foot had contributed to this natural breed’s success in racing. These new kennels provided this by mixing their bloodlines with his.
In addition to the dogs, Seppala introduced to the East at least two innovations to the sport of dog sled racing. To New Englander’s familiar with the single file freight hitch brought from Alaska by Arthur Walden, Seppala’s method of hooking the dogs in pairs with a single leader looked strange. Nothing bodes better for an innovation than success however, and this double tandem hitch, with occasional slight modifications, is standard in races today. The other novelty presented by Seppala was the driver’s more active participation in the race. Although dog punchers and long-distance racers usually ran beside their sleds, the sprint racers would stand on the runners of their lighter sleds, jumping off only to run uphill. Seppala broke through this prevailing concept by introducing a pedaling motion. With one leg, as though on a scooter, timing his push with the dogs’ strides to keep the sled moving at an even rate.
Seppala and his wife returned to Alaska in the mid-thirties, and then after retirement moved to Seattle, Washington. In 1960 the chipper little man flew to Laconia, New Hampshire to serve as honorary judge at the World Championships Sled Dog Derby. He was eighty-three years young and still delighted with the sled dogs. He reflected on his forty-five years of dog driving, his quarter of a million miles by dog team, his ninety-three silver cups and eight gold medals. The people of Laconia knew they were witnessing a giant in the sport.
Beyond the trophies, the Seppala-strain sled dogs, the inspired dog drivers, the innovations and contributions to the sport, lies the quality of the man. In a sport where handling dogs well is a necessity, the best still pay tribute to Seppala’s skillful relationship with his dogs. In a sport where some try to win with pressure and punishment, Seppala’s unequalled triumphs were achieved with kindness and encouragement. A driver could be running a good race, but he knew if Seppala was in it, chances were good that the little Siberian team would go flying past, almost soundless. Many mushers would say that Seppala would just cluck them every now and then, and the dogs would lay into their harnesses harder than they have ever seen before. One competitor said, “Something came out of him and went into those dogs with that clucking sound. He passed me every day of the race and I wasn’t loafing any.”
After a long day Seppala would reach for his parka and cap and go out to his dogs one more time before retiring for the night to check on their comfort. Out would go that little weather-beaten Alaskan, a man who pinned his faith and his life on the good health, endurance and loyalty of his dogs.
Dr. Robert Forto is a certified canine behaviorist and owner of Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He specializes in canine aggression and dangerous dogs. He is also an avid musher and winter sports enthusiast. Dr. Forto can be contacted via his website http://www.denverdogworks.com/ and by phone at 303-752-2818.
Friday, February 22, 2008
Dog Parks: Tranquility or Chaos
Dog Parks: Tranquility or Chaos?
“Why I don’t Recommend Them”
By Robert Forto, PhD
I have been a canine behaviorist for the past eighteen years and I have to go on the record and state that I do not like dog parks. I think they are an accident waiting to happen. Many people, especially in Denver, Colorado love these parks and they think they are a tranquil place for their dogs to run, romp, and play with other dogs.
After dealing with aggressive and violent dogs my entire career this is the furthest from the truth. I deal with aggressive dogs every day. It is my specialty. While it may be true that many, and maybe most, dogs will do fine at the dog park, with little if no incidents of a problem, you are just bidding your time. A dog park is not a natural place for dogs to be.
The Dangers of Dog Parks
Almost daily I get a call or an email from someone telling me about the problems they have with their dog because they think he is aggressive, or a story about how their dog was attacked when they were on walks or running loose at a local dog park. I have even addressed this problem and have a class that meets on Saturdays. I call it my Growl Class. You would be surprised of how many people have signed up for it. Not just owners with Colorado classified banned breeds. We’ve had everything from miniature poodles to English sheep dogs.
People ask me how to deal with overly aggressive dogs that belong to other owners. They ask me to show them how to handle their dog so that they can “teach” someone at the dog park how to handle their dogs. They ask me questions about their own dog not trying to stick up for or defend themselves when they are approached by an aggressive dog. Many people have watched television shows and they were told that the dogs need to work it out for themselves. I say--so far from the truth!
The concept of dog parks was well intended but not a researched enough idea by the local state and city governments. The idea of a park is to bring people and families closer together—not to build internal strife and conflict that sometimes resembles doggie gang warfare! Many dog parks allow dogs to run off-leash in lush acreage of surrounding utopia--what a disaster. The main problem stems from people who just do not understand canine pack structure. The City Council’s that set up these open space wonderlands are politician’s not canine handlers--they should have consulted an expert. What it equals is that the dogs in these parks are out of control. Too often as well, the owners are completely oblivious as to what their dog is doing at the dog park. The owners are often observed using cell phones or doing other things that distract them from monitoring their own dogs’ actions.
The average dog owner does not take the time to understand, much less install, pack structure. They do not know how strong the pack instincts are in their family pets. These drives can, and often do, click into high gear when a dog is taken into a park with strange dogs. I meet with people every day that come into my training center and they say that this dog is the alpha dog because he is the male, or he is older, or he is stronger, or he is my favorite. Canine pack behavior is a very complex dynamic that should not be under-estimated. I spent the better part of my career studying pack structure with a team of thirty-five Siberian husky sled dogs. I lived and slept with these dogs. I became a part of their pack. I learned many life lessons from them. The most important one: do not under estimate at dog’s potential ever.
When a new dog comes into a park that other dogs visit every day the new visitor is often seen as an intruder into “the personal territory" of the regular visitor. More often than not they are not seen as a new found friend. This often leads to either territorial aggression, dominance aggression or fear aggression. Instincts kick in and pandemonium develops. Owners are running and screaming towards their dogs, a fight breaks out and the utopia is now in chaos. Someone inevitably gets hurt.
DOG PACKS in the PARK
When a group of dogs, three or more, are allowed to run together in an area where there are no strong pack leaders (human pack leaders), they instinctively try to establish a rank order, or pecking order. If there are several dogs that want to assume a certain rank within this new pack there are often problems. Too often, this results in dog fights to determine what rank a dog will assume.
It is a mistake to assume that every dog in the park is a well-mannered, well-trained pet. Just because its playing with other dogs does not mean that it will play with your dog. The issue of rank has already been settled with these other dogs and the game may be going according to their rules. Your dog will not know the rules and can easily get into trouble. Too often when a fight breaks out between your dog and the leader of this pack the other dogs in the pack will also jump in and go after your dog.
The vast majority of dogs do not want to be pack leaders. They are perfectly happy with their owners assuming the position of leader. As such these dogs expect their pack leader--their owner-- to protect them. That's why these dogs will run to their owner when they fell threatened by another dog. When an owner does not protect his dog the dog is in conflict and loses confidence. When the owner ignores the perceived threat their dogs often move into fight or flight.
When you stop to think about it, normal people would never expect their young children to fight adults that were threatening their home. So why do people expect their young dogs to show aggression to older dogs? In most cases, the owners simply lack the understanding of pack drive and dog training. People get caught in the trap of thinking they have a German Shepherd from working police bloodlines and it should be tough!! Well, it doesn't work that way.
When new owners assume the position of pack leader and they do everything right when their pup is young the dog will grow up to be a confident adult dog. When owners drop the pack structure ball their dogs grow up to be dogs with aggressive issues (either overly aggressive or fearful). This is the primary focus of my work and why my aggression management classes are so successful. Canine training is not about training the dog. It is about educating the owner. I have been known to say that dog training is 90% people and 10% dog. I wholeheartedly believe that. I have conducted many seminars called “Leader of the Pack” and there is a weekly show on cable that promotes “Be a Pack Leader.” But do you really know what that means? Do you know how much work, how much time and energy, how much of a commitment it is going to take to give you that empowerment? Being a pack leader to your dog can not, and should not, be compartmentalized in a 30-minute program where the magic of television makes everything alright.
Dog fights are scary business. They could literally mean life and death. I am sure you have heard the horror stories. Is this something that you are ready for? I have been bit hundreds of times--often by the cutest dogs in the neighborhood. I have respect for all dogs. And I make it my business to earn theirs. Aggressive dogs need to be dealt with by a professional. Not an arm-chair quarterback at a dog park shouting “leave it!” because they read a book, or watched a show or attended a chain store puppy class.
My Growl class is a course out of necessity. People love their dogs and they love the outdoors. But dog parks are a plethora of chaos. Research shows that three out of four dogs are not trained. My definition of training has always been: “Control for you, routine for your dog”. If you have a dog that needs work with aggression. If you would like to better understand canine pack structure or if you are tired of your dog getting into fights at the dog park give me a call and we’ll talk about it.
_____________________
Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He specializes in canine aggression. Please check out his website at www.DenverDogWorks.com. He can be reached anytime at 303-752-2818.
“Why I don’t Recommend Them”
By Robert Forto, PhD
I have been a canine behaviorist for the past eighteen years and I have to go on the record and state that I do not like dog parks. I think they are an accident waiting to happen. Many people, especially in Denver, Colorado love these parks and they think they are a tranquil place for their dogs to run, romp, and play with other dogs.
After dealing with aggressive and violent dogs my entire career this is the furthest from the truth. I deal with aggressive dogs every day. It is my specialty. While it may be true that many, and maybe most, dogs will do fine at the dog park, with little if no incidents of a problem, you are just bidding your time. A dog park is not a natural place for dogs to be.
The Dangers of Dog Parks
Almost daily I get a call or an email from someone telling me about the problems they have with their dog because they think he is aggressive, or a story about how their dog was attacked when they were on walks or running loose at a local dog park. I have even addressed this problem and have a class that meets on Saturdays. I call it my Growl Class. You would be surprised of how many people have signed up for it. Not just owners with Colorado classified banned breeds. We’ve had everything from miniature poodles to English sheep dogs.
People ask me how to deal with overly aggressive dogs that belong to other owners. They ask me to show them how to handle their dog so that they can “teach” someone at the dog park how to handle their dogs. They ask me questions about their own dog not trying to stick up for or defend themselves when they are approached by an aggressive dog. Many people have watched television shows and they were told that the dogs need to work it out for themselves. I say--so far from the truth!
The concept of dog parks was well intended but not a researched enough idea by the local state and city governments. The idea of a park is to bring people and families closer together—not to build internal strife and conflict that sometimes resembles doggie gang warfare! Many dog parks allow dogs to run off-leash in lush acreage of surrounding utopia--what a disaster. The main problem stems from people who just do not understand canine pack structure. The City Council’s that set up these open space wonderlands are politician’s not canine handlers--they should have consulted an expert. What it equals is that the dogs in these parks are out of control. Too often as well, the owners are completely oblivious as to what their dog is doing at the dog park. The owners are often observed using cell phones or doing other things that distract them from monitoring their own dogs’ actions.
The average dog owner does not take the time to understand, much less install, pack structure. They do not know how strong the pack instincts are in their family pets. These drives can, and often do, click into high gear when a dog is taken into a park with strange dogs. I meet with people every day that come into my training center and they say that this dog is the alpha dog because he is the male, or he is older, or he is stronger, or he is my favorite. Canine pack behavior is a very complex dynamic that should not be under-estimated. I spent the better part of my career studying pack structure with a team of thirty-five Siberian husky sled dogs. I lived and slept with these dogs. I became a part of their pack. I learned many life lessons from them. The most important one: do not under estimate at dog’s potential ever.
When a new dog comes into a park that other dogs visit every day the new visitor is often seen as an intruder into “the personal territory" of the regular visitor. More often than not they are not seen as a new found friend. This often leads to either territorial aggression, dominance aggression or fear aggression. Instincts kick in and pandemonium develops. Owners are running and screaming towards their dogs, a fight breaks out and the utopia is now in chaos. Someone inevitably gets hurt.
DOG PACKS in the PARK
When a group of dogs, three or more, are allowed to run together in an area where there are no strong pack leaders (human pack leaders), they instinctively try to establish a rank order, or pecking order. If there are several dogs that want to assume a certain rank within this new pack there are often problems. Too often, this results in dog fights to determine what rank a dog will assume.
It is a mistake to assume that every dog in the park is a well-mannered, well-trained pet. Just because its playing with other dogs does not mean that it will play with your dog. The issue of rank has already been settled with these other dogs and the game may be going according to their rules. Your dog will not know the rules and can easily get into trouble. Too often when a fight breaks out between your dog and the leader of this pack the other dogs in the pack will also jump in and go after your dog.
The vast majority of dogs do not want to be pack leaders. They are perfectly happy with their owners assuming the position of leader. As such these dogs expect their pack leader--their owner-- to protect them. That's why these dogs will run to their owner when they fell threatened by another dog. When an owner does not protect his dog the dog is in conflict and loses confidence. When the owner ignores the perceived threat their dogs often move into fight or flight.
When you stop to think about it, normal people would never expect their young children to fight adults that were threatening their home. So why do people expect their young dogs to show aggression to older dogs? In most cases, the owners simply lack the understanding of pack drive and dog training. People get caught in the trap of thinking they have a German Shepherd from working police bloodlines and it should be tough!! Well, it doesn't work that way.
When new owners assume the position of pack leader and they do everything right when their pup is young the dog will grow up to be a confident adult dog. When owners drop the pack structure ball their dogs grow up to be dogs with aggressive issues (either overly aggressive or fearful). This is the primary focus of my work and why my aggression management classes are so successful. Canine training is not about training the dog. It is about educating the owner. I have been known to say that dog training is 90% people and 10% dog. I wholeheartedly believe that. I have conducted many seminars called “Leader of the Pack” and there is a weekly show on cable that promotes “Be a Pack Leader.” But do you really know what that means? Do you know how much work, how much time and energy, how much of a commitment it is going to take to give you that empowerment? Being a pack leader to your dog can not, and should not, be compartmentalized in a 30-minute program where the magic of television makes everything alright.
Dog fights are scary business. They could literally mean life and death. I am sure you have heard the horror stories. Is this something that you are ready for? I have been bit hundreds of times--often by the cutest dogs in the neighborhood. I have respect for all dogs. And I make it my business to earn theirs. Aggressive dogs need to be dealt with by a professional. Not an arm-chair quarterback at a dog park shouting “leave it!” because they read a book, or watched a show or attended a chain store puppy class.
My Growl class is a course out of necessity. People love their dogs and they love the outdoors. But dog parks are a plethora of chaos. Research shows that three out of four dogs are not trained. My definition of training has always been: “Control for you, routine for your dog”. If you have a dog that needs work with aggression. If you would like to better understand canine pack structure or if you are tired of your dog getting into fights at the dog park give me a call and we’ll talk about it.
_____________________
Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He specializes in canine aggression. Please check out his website at www.DenverDogWorks.com. He can be reached anytime at 303-752-2818.
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Evicted: Pets and the Foreclosure Crisis
Evicted: Pets and the Foreclosure Crisis
By Robert Forto, PhD
The house was ravaged — its floors ripped, walls busted and lights smashed by owners who trashed their home before a bank foreclosed on it. Hidden in the wreckage was an abandoned member of the family: a starving pit bull -- this was the image of a home in suburban California a week ago.The dog was too far gone to save — another example of how pets are becoming the newest victims of the nation’s mortgage crisis as homeowners leave animals behind when they can no longer afford their property.Pets “are getting dumped all over,” said Traci Jennings, president of the Humane Society of Stanislaus County in northern California. “Farmers are finding dogs dumped on their grazing grounds, while house cats are showing up in wild cat colonies.”The abandoned pets are overwhelming animal shelters and drawing fury from bloggers, trainers, activists and rescue groups, especially as photos of emaciated animals circulate on the Internet.
Denver Dog Works in Colorado has seen an influx of shelter-saved dogs at the training center in recent months. All of the new owners say the same thing: “I don’t know the dog’s history we just wanted to save his life,” as quoted verbatim from more than one client. While this is admirable at best, and a challenge none-the-least when it comes to training the dog to accept a new home the new owners are facing an up-hill battle.The first people to enter an abandoned house, such as property inspectors and real estate brokers, have discovered dogs tied to trees in backyards, cats in garages, and turtles, rabbits and lizards in children’s bedrooms.No one keeps track of the number of abandoned pets, but anecdotal evidence suggests that forsaken animals are becoming a problem wherever foreclosures are climbing. Denver is reported to have the highest number of foreclosures per capita. Colorado also has some of the highest number of dogs per household. The two combined equal a disaster on an epidemic scale for wayward pets.Despite months of warning before a foreclosure, many desperate homeowners run out the clock hoping to forestall an eviction. Then they panic, particularly if they are moving to a home where pets are not permitted. Many of these people have no money, their credit is a mess and they cannot afford to move into an apartment and pay the extra fee for a security deposit for the pet, which is often hundreds of dollars.The situation has become so widespread that the Humane Society urges home owners faced with foreclosure to take their animals to a shelter. Many shelters even have a no-questions-asked policy. In most cases, a pet owner is not required to give details about the reasons for turning over the animal. Some organizations even have drop off boxes where an owner can take a pet anonymously.Shelters are trying to keep up, but the spike in abandoned pets comes at a time when fewer people are adopting animals. Home sales are plunging to their lowest level in decades, and new homeowners are often the most likely to seek a pet.Even people who are buying homes are not adopting pets.“People are not bringing home puppies because times are tough, and animals cost money,” says Dr. Robert Forto, training director for Denver Dog Works. “It is a sad fact that dogs in this country are disposable. That is uncalled for,” Dr. Forto says.
The mortgage crisis shows few signs of easing. Many real estate tracking companies announce that countless homeowners started to fall behind on mortgage payments in the past six months, setting the stage for a record-number foreclosures this year. While the government and even our President have adopted programs for people in trouble, many do not meet the stringent qualification procedures. For others, it is already too late.Shelters all over the Denver area are fielding more desperate calls from animal owners about to be evicted. Many call as a last resort after being turned down by various rescue groups with no room for more animals.“They’re usually breaking down on the phone,” said a shelter dispatcher recently quoted on a blog on the Internet. “I’m quite direct with them that there’s a 50-50 chance the animals might be put down.”Still, shelter operators say, half a chance is better than none.“They may be euthanized at a shelter,” said Stephanie Shain of the Humane Society of the United States. “But they’ll be fed and have water and have a humane euthanization, as opposed to spending the last days of their lives eating carpet or wallboard.”Canine Behaviorists and trainers like Dr. Forto are furious with the “foreclosure pet” phenomenon, especially after seeing photos of emaciated animals on the Internet and those arriving at his training center in near feral condition. Some critics say the pet owners have already proved they are irresponsible by buying houses they could not afford or mortgages they did not bother to understand.The problem is exacerbated because most people grappling with foreclosure are returning to rental housing or moving in with relatives — two situations where it can be difficult or impossible to bring pets.What we’ve always known is that when times are hard for people, they’re hard for their pets as well.Abandoning animals is illegal in most states under anti-cruelty laws, but the laws are not rigidly enforced. In most cases it is just a fine of a few hundred dollars or the prospect of a misdemeanor on your record. A relatively small price to pay when you are facing homelessness.Occasionally, albeit rarely, a family will be reunited with the pet that they had left behind in their foreclosed house. In one case, a family was staying in a homeless shelter, and their dogs were being cared for by neighbors at the family’s behest. The family was able to find housing suitable for themselves and their dogs.But happy endings elude a majority of foreclosure animals.“Their best shot is for the owners to plan ahead some,” Dr. Forto said. “But they do not always plan for the unforeseeable circumstance of loosing their home. I do not see that happening anytime soon.”
Dr. Robert Forto, training director of Denver Dog Works, often trains many pets that are adopted from local shelters and offers discounts to those who call us and say they read this article. If you would like to schedule an evaluation with your dog please give us a call anytime at 303-752-2818 or via email at train@denverdogworks.com.
Citation: American Humane Society website
By Robert Forto, PhD
The house was ravaged — its floors ripped, walls busted and lights smashed by owners who trashed their home before a bank foreclosed on it. Hidden in the wreckage was an abandoned member of the family: a starving pit bull -- this was the image of a home in suburban California a week ago.The dog was too far gone to save — another example of how pets are becoming the newest victims of the nation’s mortgage crisis as homeowners leave animals behind when they can no longer afford their property.Pets “are getting dumped all over,” said Traci Jennings, president of the Humane Society of Stanislaus County in northern California. “Farmers are finding dogs dumped on their grazing grounds, while house cats are showing up in wild cat colonies.”The abandoned pets are overwhelming animal shelters and drawing fury from bloggers, trainers, activists and rescue groups, especially as photos of emaciated animals circulate on the Internet.
Denver Dog Works in Colorado has seen an influx of shelter-saved dogs at the training center in recent months. All of the new owners say the same thing: “I don’t know the dog’s history we just wanted to save his life,” as quoted verbatim from more than one client. While this is admirable at best, and a challenge none-the-least when it comes to training the dog to accept a new home the new owners are facing an up-hill battle.The first people to enter an abandoned house, such as property inspectors and real estate brokers, have discovered dogs tied to trees in backyards, cats in garages, and turtles, rabbits and lizards in children’s bedrooms.No one keeps track of the number of abandoned pets, but anecdotal evidence suggests that forsaken animals are becoming a problem wherever foreclosures are climbing. Denver is reported to have the highest number of foreclosures per capita. Colorado also has some of the highest number of dogs per household. The two combined equal a disaster on an epidemic scale for wayward pets.Despite months of warning before a foreclosure, many desperate homeowners run out the clock hoping to forestall an eviction. Then they panic, particularly if they are moving to a home where pets are not permitted. Many of these people have no money, their credit is a mess and they cannot afford to move into an apartment and pay the extra fee for a security deposit for the pet, which is often hundreds of dollars.The situation has become so widespread that the Humane Society urges home owners faced with foreclosure to take their animals to a shelter. Many shelters even have a no-questions-asked policy. In most cases, a pet owner is not required to give details about the reasons for turning over the animal. Some organizations even have drop off boxes where an owner can take a pet anonymously.Shelters are trying to keep up, but the spike in abandoned pets comes at a time when fewer people are adopting animals. Home sales are plunging to their lowest level in decades, and new homeowners are often the most likely to seek a pet.Even people who are buying homes are not adopting pets.“People are not bringing home puppies because times are tough, and animals cost money,” says Dr. Robert Forto, training director for Denver Dog Works. “It is a sad fact that dogs in this country are disposable. That is uncalled for,” Dr. Forto says.
The mortgage crisis shows few signs of easing. Many real estate tracking companies announce that countless homeowners started to fall behind on mortgage payments in the past six months, setting the stage for a record-number foreclosures this year. While the government and even our President have adopted programs for people in trouble, many do not meet the stringent qualification procedures. For others, it is already too late.Shelters all over the Denver area are fielding more desperate calls from animal owners about to be evicted. Many call as a last resort after being turned down by various rescue groups with no room for more animals.“They’re usually breaking down on the phone,” said a shelter dispatcher recently quoted on a blog on the Internet. “I’m quite direct with them that there’s a 50-50 chance the animals might be put down.”Still, shelter operators say, half a chance is better than none.“They may be euthanized at a shelter,” said Stephanie Shain of the Humane Society of the United States. “But they’ll be fed and have water and have a humane euthanization, as opposed to spending the last days of their lives eating carpet or wallboard.”Canine Behaviorists and trainers like Dr. Forto are furious with the “foreclosure pet” phenomenon, especially after seeing photos of emaciated animals on the Internet and those arriving at his training center in near feral condition. Some critics say the pet owners have already proved they are irresponsible by buying houses they could not afford or mortgages they did not bother to understand.The problem is exacerbated because most people grappling with foreclosure are returning to rental housing or moving in with relatives — two situations where it can be difficult or impossible to bring pets.What we’ve always known is that when times are hard for people, they’re hard for their pets as well.Abandoning animals is illegal in most states under anti-cruelty laws, but the laws are not rigidly enforced. In most cases it is just a fine of a few hundred dollars or the prospect of a misdemeanor on your record. A relatively small price to pay when you are facing homelessness.Occasionally, albeit rarely, a family will be reunited with the pet that they had left behind in their foreclosed house. In one case, a family was staying in a homeless shelter, and their dogs were being cared for by neighbors at the family’s behest. The family was able to find housing suitable for themselves and their dogs.But happy endings elude a majority of foreclosure animals.“Their best shot is for the owners to plan ahead some,” Dr. Forto said. “But they do not always plan for the unforeseeable circumstance of loosing their home. I do not see that happening anytime soon.”
Dr. Robert Forto, training director of Denver Dog Works, often trains many pets that are adopted from local shelters and offers discounts to those who call us and say they read this article. If you would like to schedule an evaluation with your dog please give us a call anytime at 303-752-2818 or via email at train@denverdogworks.com.
Citation: American Humane Society website
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