30 Days of Bonding
By Robert Forto, PhD
As a breeder of World Class German Shepherds I cannot stress enough how important it is for a new puppy owner to bond with their dog. I see time and time again where these new dog owners do not understand how important it is to integrate the new puppy into the family. Remember your new dog does not know you or your family. He/she will bond with you and your family in approximately thirty days. During this bonding there are going to be some things you do and do not do...
Do not leave your dog unattended with your children until the bond is complete. Tell your children not to rush up to the dog but to let the dog come to them. Entice the dog to come to them with food treats. If the dog does not want to approach them, don't worry, he/she will in a few days. Do not force people on the dog; he will become comfortable with your family in a few days.
The dog will be fed twice a day. Have your family take turns feeding the dog. Have them take the food bowl to the dog, put it down and then leave the dog alone while he/she eats. Do not bother the dog while he/she eats. Always feed the dog in the same place, preferably his kennel, the garage, etc.
If you are going to leave the dog alone, leave him/her in a crate until the bond is complete and the dog becomes comfortable in his/her surroundings. The dog will sleep in the crate at night. The crate can be put wherever you want.
Do not reach into the crate and try to grab your dog. Remember you have no bond yet. Bring the dog out to you with food or a toy. You must show the dog that you are his/her friend. Everything must be positive.
When playing fetch, use the two toy method until you have a good bond with the dog. Playing with the dog is a good way to make the dog comfortable with you. Have the children play fetch with the dog also. Do not attempt to grab the toy from the dog's mouth. First ask the dog to drop the toy for you. If he/she does not drop the toy, give him/her the command to drop it, at the same time showing the dog the other toy. When the dog drops the first toy, throw the other toy for the dog. This method will also strengthen your recall, because when the dog goes after the toy you threw, you will show him the second toy when you call him to bring you the first toy. (The best toys are rubber "KONGS" available in any pet store.)
If your children bring their friends to the house, be sure to secure the dog. Remember, your children's friends have not been taught like your children on how to act around the dog. Tell your friends not to force themselves on the dog, If the dog wants to be petted he will approach them. If you are going to have a party or have several friends over, put the dog away.
Playing, feeding and spending positive time with your dog is the best way to seal the bond. Do not try and force your dog to do anything like obedience, etc. Have the dog do what you want by using food rewards and praise. This positive reinforcement method will work the best for you if you are consistent. You will see the dog react to this method in a very short time. Remember you will be attending training classes at our facility after the thirty day bonding period.
Remember if you have other animals such as cats, birds, horses or any other type of livestock, your new dog will have to be socialized with them and taught how to behave around them. This is something you have to be consistent with until your new dog is comfortable around the other animals.
If you purchase a dog from Denver Dog Works remember your dog is already trained. Now you and your family must learn how to handle the dog properly by attending the prescribed training. It will be your job to explain this information to any other adult in the immediate family. If you are purchasing a puppy it is a good idea to enroll in a puppy class. Denver Dog Works has a new puppy class starting the first Saturday of each month. Give us a call for details.
Be sure you have read all the forms and handouts you have received from the breeder and/or in obedience class thoroughly. Do you research on your breed, his/her temperament, and personality. Familiarize yourself with puppy traits and behavioral problems. If you have any questions ASK!!! Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Do’s and Don’ts
REMEMBER TO BE PATIENT! YOU HAVE 30 DAYS TO BOND WITH YOUR DOG.
DO NOT! Let your dog sleep out of his crate for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks he can sleep out of his crate every other night for the next week.
DO NOT! Leave your dog loose or unattended in the house for the first two weeks. If you are going to leave the dog at home, confine him in his crate. If you plan on leaving the dog in the house unattended after he is finished with his training, after the first two weeks you can start leaving him unattended for short periods of time and slowly keep extending the time.
Be sure to take him out frequently to relieve himself, he is house broken, but he will be in a new area and may be excited and forget, so you will have to reinforce the training.
After the first two weeks, you will start some obedience work, so you will need to contact Denver Dog Works anytime after the first two weeks are up so we can help you get started. You will more than likely be enrolled in one of our Saturday obedience classes.
If you are having a problem or even think you are having a problem, you are to contact us right away. A Denver Dog Works instructor will call you back within the day. Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question!
DO NOT! Let your dog do anything you do not want him to do later on in his life. Remember you are the BOSS (pack leader). Your dog does not sleep on the bed or get on the furniture EVER! This can cause training and behavior problems in the future. If you want to sit or lay next to your dog, you go to him on the floor.
During the bonding period you should give your dog food rewards when you call him to you or when he/she does something good.
Training should start the day you bring your dog home. This is not only a great opportunity to form that life-long bond but also does not allow bad habits to develop. Often we will see dog owners come into Denver Dog Works when their puppy is six months old and the owners are at wits end and ready to give up. The first question I always ask is why did you wait so long? The most common answer is they wanted the dog to be a puppy. What a mistake! Would you not allow your children not to attend elementary school because you just wanted them to be a kid? No way! The same goes with dogs.
Just remember five simple things: exercise your dog often, be consistent, be patient, give Denver Dog Works a call if you have a question or a problem, and…
GOOD LUCK!
____________________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He specializes in canine sports and aggression. If you would like to contact Dr. Robert Forto he can be reached through is website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-752-2818 anytime.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Dogs With Bite Histories
Dogs with Bite Histories
By Robert Forto, PhD
It is always something that most dog owners have in the back of their minds – the horror of finding out, either first or secondhand, that your dog has bitten someone. In some cases you know that it is a possibility, in other cases you are completely stunned that your dog could do something like this. While you are reeling from the information, trying to decide what to do, here are some things to consider.
1) How bad was the bite? Dr. Ian Dunbar, a veterinarian and respected dog trainer, grades bites on a level of 1-6:
1. Did the bite leave no evidence of damage?
2. Teeth made contact, but no pressure was used.
3. One to three punctures in a single bite, none deeper than ½ the length of a
canine tooth.
4. One to four punctures, with at least one puncture deeper than ½ the length of
a canine tooth. This means that the dog grabbed and shook what was in its mouth.
5. Multiple Level 4 bites.
6. Death.
Know that dogs do not “accidentally” bite. Puppies spend so much of their time playing, chewing, and putting things in their mouth so that they can learn the extent of their jaw’s capabilities and strengths. If a dog puts teeth on you, but did not actually bite down, it is exactly what he meant to do. If a dog leaves a puncture wound, it was not an accident, he put as much pressure into the bite as he thought she needed to.
A dog that issues a Level 1-3 bite is usually considered a good candidate for rehabilitation. Dogs with a history of bites that are Level 4 and higher are considered to be a much greater risk and not as likely to be safely rehabilitated.
2) What provoked the bite? If you know your dog is tense or fearful or protective in certain situations, and the dog was in one of the situations when he bit, you know what probably provoked him. Not all bites are obviously provoked, but many dogs give clear warnings before they bite that we humans never bother to see.
3) What was the dog’s reaction after the bite? Did the dog bite and go back to sleep, did she bite and then run away, did she bite once and prepare to bite again?
4) Is this a dog that you still want in your home? If you no longer want the dog in your home, what reason would someone else have for taking this dog into their home?
5) In many states, a dog must be quarantined for ten days after issuing a bite that is recorded. During that time, the dog cannot be sold, given, returned or otherwise be placed into someone else’s ownership. If proof of current rabies vaccination can be shown, the dog might be able to be quarantined at the home. If no current vaccination can be proved, the dog will need to be kenneled at a humane society, shelter, vet’s office, or other place as determined by local laws. Any kenneling fees are the responsibility of the dog’s owner.
It is becoming increasingly common for dogs with bite histories to cause companies to cancel insurance policies. Some municipalities will register dogs with bite histories as “dangerous dogs” and will impose restrictions on the dog’s owner.
Also keep in mind that some state laws may hold you liable for any further bites that the dog may issue if you re-home the dog, either before or after the required ten day holding period is up. If it can be proved that you knew the dog is a bite risk, even if you chose not to disclose the fact to a new owner, you can still be held accountable.
If you would like to keep your dog in your family, you need to take measures to make sure that the dog is unlikely to bite again. Identify what provoked the bite and what can be done to manage it. This might include crating otherwise confining the dog in a room away from guests, employing muzzles, keeping the dog leashed and under the control of a responsible adult at all times, not allowing the dog in the yard unsupervised, working closely with a behaviorist or experienced trainer, or other management techniques that are deemed appropriate for the situation. You and your family must carefully consider whether these management techniques are possible and if so, will they be in place 100% of the time.
Working with a trainer is a must in dog bite cases. A canine behaviorist should be the first type of person that you look for. If a qualified canine behaviorist is not available, your next person to look for would be a trainer who is not only experienced in dealing with aggressive dogs, but is also comfortable meeting and working out training protocols for aggressive dogs. My suggestion is to find someone who uses positive reinforcement rather than compulsion training techniques, as these positive techniques can be issued by anyone, as opposed to compulsion techniques that use physical corrections, which are only effective if someone is big enough to correct the dog. Also, since many times dogs bite out of fear or stress, physical corrections can do more to worsen a problem than that help to resolve it. Regardless of the training methods used, it is imperative that YOU work with the dog and trainer!!! Sending your dog away to be trained by someone else is teaching the dog to respond to the trainer and not to you. As the responsibility of this dog will be upon you, you need to be learning training and management techniques right along with your dog.
A dog that bites is not automatically a bad dog. However, it is a dog that is in need of immediate behavior modification and a full physical and blood work up at the vet’s office. There are many, many reasons that a dog might bite, some obvious, and some not so obvious. Some dogs bite because they are afraid and feel the need to protect themselves. Other dogs bite because they feel that they are in charge and need to keep people in line. Still other dogs bite to protect themselves or what they perceive is theirs. Dogs may bite because of physical pain and it is possible for dogs to bite because of physical problems, like a tumor, or chemical imbalances in the brain.
In some cases the kindest or most responsible thing to do for the dog is to have it humanely euthanized. Dogs in physical pain that can not be relieved are clearly miserable if they are at the point that they bite. Dogs with mental illness or chemical imbalances can be as sick as a dog with cancer or heart disease. As in the case with physical illness, sometimes mental illness can not be treated and the pain is overwhelming enough that death is the kindest treatment. Some dogs that bite out of fear or protection have this learning, whether self-taught or human trained, and even well-meaning humans can unknowingly teach their dogs that biting is the best option, so well ingrained in their minds that it cannot be trained out. Rather than sending a dog to a shelter or putting it into a home where it might once again make the choice to bite (and bite more severely than before), contacting the vet yourself so that the dog is euthanized in familiar surroundings can be a very, very difficult for you, but by far the most loving thing you can do for your dog.
Obviously, the best thing you can do for your dog is to train it to accept all situations. Your dog does not have to love all the situations you put it in, but it does have to be tolerant. Rational, sound people don’t turn on friends and loved ones with knives or fists and inflict damage just because they are asked to do something they don’t care to do. We can and should expect the same courtesy from our canine family and friends. Teaching your dog to accept handling, new and unusual people, and to deal with frustration, as well as picking up some self control skills, is the first step to preventing a dog bite before it can even happen.
_____________
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Denver Dog Works. He specializes in canine aggression. He can be reached via his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727.
By Robert Forto, PhD
It is always something that most dog owners have in the back of their minds – the horror of finding out, either first or secondhand, that your dog has bitten someone. In some cases you know that it is a possibility, in other cases you are completely stunned that your dog could do something like this. While you are reeling from the information, trying to decide what to do, here are some things to consider.
1) How bad was the bite? Dr. Ian Dunbar, a veterinarian and respected dog trainer, grades bites on a level of 1-6:
1. Did the bite leave no evidence of damage?
2. Teeth made contact, but no pressure was used.
3. One to three punctures in a single bite, none deeper than ½ the length of a
canine tooth.
4. One to four punctures, with at least one puncture deeper than ½ the length of
a canine tooth. This means that the dog grabbed and shook what was in its mouth.
5. Multiple Level 4 bites.
6. Death.
Know that dogs do not “accidentally” bite. Puppies spend so much of their time playing, chewing, and putting things in their mouth so that they can learn the extent of their jaw’s capabilities and strengths. If a dog puts teeth on you, but did not actually bite down, it is exactly what he meant to do. If a dog leaves a puncture wound, it was not an accident, he put as much pressure into the bite as he thought she needed to.
A dog that issues a Level 1-3 bite is usually considered a good candidate for rehabilitation. Dogs with a history of bites that are Level 4 and higher are considered to be a much greater risk and not as likely to be safely rehabilitated.
2) What provoked the bite? If you know your dog is tense or fearful or protective in certain situations, and the dog was in one of the situations when he bit, you know what probably provoked him. Not all bites are obviously provoked, but many dogs give clear warnings before they bite that we humans never bother to see.
3) What was the dog’s reaction after the bite? Did the dog bite and go back to sleep, did she bite and then run away, did she bite once and prepare to bite again?
4) Is this a dog that you still want in your home? If you no longer want the dog in your home, what reason would someone else have for taking this dog into their home?
5) In many states, a dog must be quarantined for ten days after issuing a bite that is recorded. During that time, the dog cannot be sold, given, returned or otherwise be placed into someone else’s ownership. If proof of current rabies vaccination can be shown, the dog might be able to be quarantined at the home. If no current vaccination can be proved, the dog will need to be kenneled at a humane society, shelter, vet’s office, or other place as determined by local laws. Any kenneling fees are the responsibility of the dog’s owner.
It is becoming increasingly common for dogs with bite histories to cause companies to cancel insurance policies. Some municipalities will register dogs with bite histories as “dangerous dogs” and will impose restrictions on the dog’s owner.
Also keep in mind that some state laws may hold you liable for any further bites that the dog may issue if you re-home the dog, either before or after the required ten day holding period is up. If it can be proved that you knew the dog is a bite risk, even if you chose not to disclose the fact to a new owner, you can still be held accountable.
If you would like to keep your dog in your family, you need to take measures to make sure that the dog is unlikely to bite again. Identify what provoked the bite and what can be done to manage it. This might include crating otherwise confining the dog in a room away from guests, employing muzzles, keeping the dog leashed and under the control of a responsible adult at all times, not allowing the dog in the yard unsupervised, working closely with a behaviorist or experienced trainer, or other management techniques that are deemed appropriate for the situation. You and your family must carefully consider whether these management techniques are possible and if so, will they be in place 100% of the time.
Working with a trainer is a must in dog bite cases. A canine behaviorist should be the first type of person that you look for. If a qualified canine behaviorist is not available, your next person to look for would be a trainer who is not only experienced in dealing with aggressive dogs, but is also comfortable meeting and working out training protocols for aggressive dogs. My suggestion is to find someone who uses positive reinforcement rather than compulsion training techniques, as these positive techniques can be issued by anyone, as opposed to compulsion techniques that use physical corrections, which are only effective if someone is big enough to correct the dog. Also, since many times dogs bite out of fear or stress, physical corrections can do more to worsen a problem than that help to resolve it. Regardless of the training methods used, it is imperative that YOU work with the dog and trainer!!! Sending your dog away to be trained by someone else is teaching the dog to respond to the trainer and not to you. As the responsibility of this dog will be upon you, you need to be learning training and management techniques right along with your dog.
A dog that bites is not automatically a bad dog. However, it is a dog that is in need of immediate behavior modification and a full physical and blood work up at the vet’s office. There are many, many reasons that a dog might bite, some obvious, and some not so obvious. Some dogs bite because they are afraid and feel the need to protect themselves. Other dogs bite because they feel that they are in charge and need to keep people in line. Still other dogs bite to protect themselves or what they perceive is theirs. Dogs may bite because of physical pain and it is possible for dogs to bite because of physical problems, like a tumor, or chemical imbalances in the brain.
In some cases the kindest or most responsible thing to do for the dog is to have it humanely euthanized. Dogs in physical pain that can not be relieved are clearly miserable if they are at the point that they bite. Dogs with mental illness or chemical imbalances can be as sick as a dog with cancer or heart disease. As in the case with physical illness, sometimes mental illness can not be treated and the pain is overwhelming enough that death is the kindest treatment. Some dogs that bite out of fear or protection have this learning, whether self-taught or human trained, and even well-meaning humans can unknowingly teach their dogs that biting is the best option, so well ingrained in their minds that it cannot be trained out. Rather than sending a dog to a shelter or putting it into a home where it might once again make the choice to bite (and bite more severely than before), contacting the vet yourself so that the dog is euthanized in familiar surroundings can be a very, very difficult for you, but by far the most loving thing you can do for your dog.
Obviously, the best thing you can do for your dog is to train it to accept all situations. Your dog does not have to love all the situations you put it in, but it does have to be tolerant. Rational, sound people don’t turn on friends and loved ones with knives or fists and inflict damage just because they are asked to do something they don’t care to do. We can and should expect the same courtesy from our canine family and friends. Teaching your dog to accept handling, new and unusual people, and to deal with frustration, as well as picking up some self control skills, is the first step to preventing a dog bite before it can even happen.
_____________
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Denver Dog Works. He specializes in canine aggression. He can be reached via his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727.
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