By Robert Forto, PhD
As a canine behaviorist and the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado, I am often treating cases of fear in the family pet. In some cases it is relatively mild, say thunder or a car backfire, but far more common is fear related aggression and generalized anxiety with a fear component. The anxiety coupled with fear is usually a result of lack of improper socialization in the dog’s early environment. I will see this very common in rescued dogs. At least once a week a pet owner will come in for an evaluation and say that they just rescued Max, from the local shelter and their primary complaint is that he is scared to death of everything. I counsel the new owners about fear and how it develops in dogs and my opinion of why so many dogs end up in shelters in the first place. Fear is a central catalyst for this occurrence and dogs in shelters.
Every dog or animal with a reasonably developed central nervous system has fear. Fear is one of the basic drives, along with hunger, thirst, sleep, sex and sociality. Out-of-control fear is as much of a problem as any other drive that is out of control. But fear in normal amounts is essential, as is hunger and thirst in normal amounts. Fear is what keeps us from having a pick-up game of football on the freeway in the middle of rush-hour, and keeps us from walking on thin ice literally and figuratively. Fear helps us avoid certain disaster and keeps us alive longer. It does the same in dogs. However, we and dogs are not born with fear. Humans and dogs have an apparent fear of, snakes, it takes time to develop, about two years in humans, and several months in dogs.
Uncontrollable fear is a delicate training protocol. It is not teaching a simple sit or walking on a loose leash. You cannot treat fear by attending a group class or a puppy kindergarten, while these programs are good for the basic commands, they should not be used after a dog exhibits extreme examples of fear. Treating fear involves a program of desensitization and counter-conditioning. While these are the building blocks for canine training and behavior modification, they are principles that are unfortunately not learned by most dog trainers these days. If you suspect fear, or any other severe behavioral issue, my advice is to speak to a canine behaviorist. The difference between a behaviorist, and a trainer per say, is that the behaviorist is educated in the sciences and nuances of canine behavior and its origins. They do not practice lure based training or intimidation in behavior modification like so many of the dog trainers do today.
In the dog, fear begins between six and eight weeks of age. As an average figure, fear becomes noticeable in a pup and rapidly escalates in the seventh week, plus or minus one week. By three weeks after the onset of fear responses, fear plateaus out at a level for pups and for the specific genetic complement that have. In humans, fear begins at about two years and is not fully developed until about 20 years later. Ever see a teenage boy who did not think he was indestructible?
So, fear develops sometimes early in the life of a dog, but does not develop at the same rate in all dogs, and obviously occurs at different levels in each individual. There are three factors which alone or in combination act to determine the level of fear any given dog shows.
The first is genetic. The dog inherits a predisposition of fear. If the genetic potential is for a high level of fear, or put another away, if the dog has a low threshold for fear-inducing stimuli, it will overreact to a fearful stimulus, or what is more often the case, to a whole gamut of stimuli. What would cause a mild startle effect response in a dog with a normal fear level will drive the over-reactor ballistic.
A second factor that causes uncontrollable fear is early environment, usually from improper or even total lack of primary and secondary socialization during the critical sensitive period from 3 to 12 weeks of age. Under the influence of this fear-inducing factor, the dog might be genetically solid as the famous rock, but it missed exposure to people, various sounds, short periods of separation from Mom and the siblings when the socialization window is wide open. Therefore, the dog has never formed the association between people, sounds and objects, and low anxiety prior to the development of the fear, the only time the association can be formed. The dog will forever fear these things that will normally occur every day of its life.
The third factor is learned fear. It comes about by the chance association formed between some arbitrary neutral stimulus—say the ringing of the phone—and a negative reinforcement, something painful—like stepping on a thumbtack. If the ring happens coincidentally with or milliseconds before the pain of the tack in the foot, the dog associates the ring with the pain and will show a fear reaction to the phone ringing. Learned fear is always specific to the stimulus in the same class. So any ring similar to the phone will cause the fear response in the dog. If the fear is only to the ring of the phone and very similar ring sounds, we can live with it, but if it is something that seriously interferes with the dog’s hunting performance like fear of a loud noise (translation, a gunshot), it must be fixed and can be.
In an upcoming article I will discuss the treatment options available for the different factors of fear. Please note that these articles are for informational purposes and should not be used as a substitute for treatment of fear, or any other severe behavior problems, in your dog. This treatment should only be done under the guidance of a canine behaviorist or on a recommendation of your local veterinarian.
_______________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado and routinely treats fear in dogs. If you would like to schedule a consultation with Dr. Forto, he can be reached through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727 anytime.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Thursday, June 12, 2008
I Don't Have Time to Train My Dog!
I Don’t Have Time to Train My Dog!
By Robert Forto, PhD
How many times have you said to yourself: "Gee, I need to practice with my dog, but I just don't have time to train today." A client recently said this very thing to me. Of course, having dogs most of my life, being a certified canine behaviorist and believing in practical training, I readily had an answer: "Do you have time to eat? Do you have time to watch television...even the news? Do you have time to get your mail? Do you have time to surf the Internet?"
Well, then you have time to train. Isn't the purpose of training your dog to improve communications with your pet and increase the harmony between all the 2-legged and 4-legged members of your family?
Training does not always have to mean going to a dog-friendly park. Training does not have to take place on a large field. Training does not always include special equipment and time spent setting it up. Training does not have to involve a 30-minute block of time. And, training should never be tedious or boring.
Training opportunities are all around you. There is no better place to begin than in the home and there is no better time than RIGHT NOW!
Note: Adjust each training suggestion to the appropriate level for you and your pup, increasing the difficulty as training progresses. If you have questions, please check with your trainer. Dr. Robert Forto of Denver Dog Works in Colorado offers many specialized training program for you and your dog. At Denver Dog Works most of our clients sign up for basic manners classes. These classes are designed to make your canine companion a welcomed member of your home.
TIPS - Training In Practical Situations
Watching Television:
Place the dog on a down/stay during each commercial break. If the pup is housetrained, allow it freedom during the program.
When your dog is easily holding a 5-minute down/stay, reverse the procedure. Have the dog do a down/stay during the program and practice a more active command, such as heel, during the commercial break.
As training progresses, place your dog on a down/stay and leave the immediate area during each commercial break. Remember to enforce the command before leaving the room and upon re-entering.
If crate training is an issue, place the dog into the crate during each commercial and allow the dog to come out during the program. Then flip the times in the crate and the times outside. The randomness of your actions will lessen anxiety associated with crate training, i.e. owner leaving home.
If your dog becomes nervous and anxious during thunderstorms rent a movie that features them, i.e. The Perfect Storm. With your dog on a down/stay by your side, start the movie and play it very softly. Play and replay the weather scenes - - very softly. As your dog becomes accustomed to the noise, g-r-a-d-u-a-l-l-y increase the volume. Do this several times over a period of days, or even weeks, until you have solved the problem. This method also works for gunfire. Remember: go slowly. There are also CDs available with specific sounds. Denver Dog Works can also tailor a training program that deals with noise phobias.
Getting the Mail:
Our mail is not delivered to our door; I must walk to the end of the drive. While it is not far I take the dog along and use this time for a lesson in heel, walking sits or walking downs. Have your pet sit/stay while you reach into the box. Leave your dog on a stay and walk away; then, recall the dog to heel while you are in motion.
Is your pup learning to carry or to retrieve? Getting the mail is the perfect opportunity to let your pup practice by retrieving a piece of purposefully dropped junk mail and carry it back inside.
If you often meet up with neighbors at the cluster mailbox, this is a perfect time to practice socialization skills with your pup. Be sure you have treats to pass out to neighborhood children so that your dog can be petted by a variety of people. You may wish to introduce a command such "make friends," to insure that socialization is done only with your permission in appropriate circumstances.
Working in the Yard:
Place your dog on a down/stay as you move about the yard. Randomly, turn and face your dog, reinforcing the stay command. Periodically, break that pattern by either returning to your dog and releasing it or calling the dog to come to you.
Yard time is great for walking sits, walking downs, recall in motion, figure-8 heeling patterns - around two trees, two lawn chairs, etc.
Prior to taking the dog into the yard, place "forbidden" food items. Take your dog into the yard, on leash, and practice the "leave it" command. Be certain to have appropriate dog treats (food/ball/toy) for a reward.
"Leave it" can also involve chasing a rake or a broom. (Note: be certain never to practice this command when using power tools or equipment such as an edger or weed-whacker. Keep your pet, and yourself, safe.)
Teach your pet to be a good citizen by retrieving pop cans and placing them in the garbage. This "trick" is very impressive in the park and sets a great example for children.
Introduce your dog to water play after yard work. Whether running in the sprinklers or chasing ice cubes, remember to have fun.
Mealtime:
If allowed by your house rules, station your dog in a quiet, out of the way corner of your kitchen or dining room. If your rules say "no dogs in the kitchen," station the pup where he can still see you moving about. This is a great place to practice down/stay. There are lots of distractions: noise, odors, people coming and going, etc.
Use kitchen time to practice the "leave it" command, if your pup shows interest in food dropped on the floor.
If your dog is in front of a cabinet or pantry door, make it an opportunity to teach the command "move", by pointing to another place and encouraging the dog to relocate.
During dinner, place the dog on a down/stay under the table. No eye contact; no whining; no begging. Soon your pup will be ready to join you at a dog-friendly outdoor cafe and will be welcome on family camping trips. (Note: no people food should ever be given to the dog while you are eating. If you wish to offer table scraps, do so after you have finished and make certain they are placed in the dog's dish.)
Be Creative:
Chairs make wonderful obstacles for practicing heeling, right turns, left turns, about turns and figure-8 patterns. On a rainy day, train in the family room or dining room.
Teach your dog the command "under" using a coffee table, a child's desk or a hall bench. Make certain the item is appropriate for your pet's size. This command is great when hiking or visiting that outdoor cafe.
A ladder placed flat on the ground can help growing puppies learn to manipulate their hindquarters and become more sure-footed. Use lots of patience, praise and rewards to encourage your pup, on leash, to walk the length of the ladder, stepping over the rungs.
To encourage your pup to chew their toys/bones and not your furniture or clothing, establish a toy basket just for the pet. Place a variety of toys of variable textures and sizes in the basket--including plush toys, rawhide chews and a ball. To keep your pet interested, hide a few special treats in the basket before encouraging your pet to get a toy. You can eventually move the basket with you, to entertain a pup while working in your home office.
Times NOT To Train:
When you are not feeling well.
When you are angry, negative or upset.
When you are low on patience or out of energy.
When there are too many distractions for you in the training area.
When there are too many distractions for your dog's level of ability to concentrate on learning a new command. (Instead, try proofing your dog on commands that are already well understood).
When you are unclear how to perform or teach an exercise to your dog. Clarify what you should be doing, with your trainer, before working your dog.
In Summary:
Training is really all the little things you do each and every day, showing your dog what you expect from their behavior. Training should be a special time for you and your pet to enjoy being together. End each session with something your dog is good at doing--and praise, praise, praise.
____________________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado. Denver Dog Works is an all-breed training school that specializes in canine sports and working dogs. If you would like to find out more about our programs visit our website at www.DenverDogWorks.com or give us a call at 303-752-2818 anytime.
By Robert Forto, PhD
How many times have you said to yourself: "Gee, I need to practice with my dog, but I just don't have time to train today." A client recently said this very thing to me. Of course, having dogs most of my life, being a certified canine behaviorist and believing in practical training, I readily had an answer: "Do you have time to eat? Do you have time to watch television...even the news? Do you have time to get your mail? Do you have time to surf the Internet?"
Well, then you have time to train. Isn't the purpose of training your dog to improve communications with your pet and increase the harmony between all the 2-legged and 4-legged members of your family?
Training does not always have to mean going to a dog-friendly park. Training does not have to take place on a large field. Training does not always include special equipment and time spent setting it up. Training does not have to involve a 30-minute block of time. And, training should never be tedious or boring.
Training opportunities are all around you. There is no better place to begin than in the home and there is no better time than RIGHT NOW!
Note: Adjust each training suggestion to the appropriate level for you and your pup, increasing the difficulty as training progresses. If you have questions, please check with your trainer. Dr. Robert Forto of Denver Dog Works in Colorado offers many specialized training program for you and your dog. At Denver Dog Works most of our clients sign up for basic manners classes. These classes are designed to make your canine companion a welcomed member of your home.
TIPS - Training In Practical Situations
Watching Television:
Place the dog on a down/stay during each commercial break. If the pup is housetrained, allow it freedom during the program.
When your dog is easily holding a 5-minute down/stay, reverse the procedure. Have the dog do a down/stay during the program and practice a more active command, such as heel, during the commercial break.
As training progresses, place your dog on a down/stay and leave the immediate area during each commercial break. Remember to enforce the command before leaving the room and upon re-entering.
If crate training is an issue, place the dog into the crate during each commercial and allow the dog to come out during the program. Then flip the times in the crate and the times outside. The randomness of your actions will lessen anxiety associated with crate training, i.e. owner leaving home.
If your dog becomes nervous and anxious during thunderstorms rent a movie that features them, i.e. The Perfect Storm. With your dog on a down/stay by your side, start the movie and play it very softly. Play and replay the weather scenes - - very softly. As your dog becomes accustomed to the noise, g-r-a-d-u-a-l-l-y increase the volume. Do this several times over a period of days, or even weeks, until you have solved the problem. This method also works for gunfire. Remember: go slowly. There are also CDs available with specific sounds. Denver Dog Works can also tailor a training program that deals with noise phobias.
Getting the Mail:
Our mail is not delivered to our door; I must walk to the end of the drive. While it is not far I take the dog along and use this time for a lesson in heel, walking sits or walking downs. Have your pet sit/stay while you reach into the box. Leave your dog on a stay and walk away; then, recall the dog to heel while you are in motion.
Is your pup learning to carry or to retrieve? Getting the mail is the perfect opportunity to let your pup practice by retrieving a piece of purposefully dropped junk mail and carry it back inside.
If you often meet up with neighbors at the cluster mailbox, this is a perfect time to practice socialization skills with your pup. Be sure you have treats to pass out to neighborhood children so that your dog can be petted by a variety of people. You may wish to introduce a command such "make friends," to insure that socialization is done only with your permission in appropriate circumstances.
Working in the Yard:
Place your dog on a down/stay as you move about the yard. Randomly, turn and face your dog, reinforcing the stay command. Periodically, break that pattern by either returning to your dog and releasing it or calling the dog to come to you.
Yard time is great for walking sits, walking downs, recall in motion, figure-8 heeling patterns - around two trees, two lawn chairs, etc.
Prior to taking the dog into the yard, place "forbidden" food items. Take your dog into the yard, on leash, and practice the "leave it" command. Be certain to have appropriate dog treats (food/ball/toy) for a reward.
"Leave it" can also involve chasing a rake or a broom. (Note: be certain never to practice this command when using power tools or equipment such as an edger or weed-whacker. Keep your pet, and yourself, safe.)
Teach your pet to be a good citizen by retrieving pop cans and placing them in the garbage. This "trick" is very impressive in the park and sets a great example for children.
Introduce your dog to water play after yard work. Whether running in the sprinklers or chasing ice cubes, remember to have fun.
Mealtime:
If allowed by your house rules, station your dog in a quiet, out of the way corner of your kitchen or dining room. If your rules say "no dogs in the kitchen," station the pup where he can still see you moving about. This is a great place to practice down/stay. There are lots of distractions: noise, odors, people coming and going, etc.
Use kitchen time to practice the "leave it" command, if your pup shows interest in food dropped on the floor.
If your dog is in front of a cabinet or pantry door, make it an opportunity to teach the command "move", by pointing to another place and encouraging the dog to relocate.
During dinner, place the dog on a down/stay under the table. No eye contact; no whining; no begging. Soon your pup will be ready to join you at a dog-friendly outdoor cafe and will be welcome on family camping trips. (Note: no people food should ever be given to the dog while you are eating. If you wish to offer table scraps, do so after you have finished and make certain they are placed in the dog's dish.)
Be Creative:
Chairs make wonderful obstacles for practicing heeling, right turns, left turns, about turns and figure-8 patterns. On a rainy day, train in the family room or dining room.
Teach your dog the command "under" using a coffee table, a child's desk or a hall bench. Make certain the item is appropriate for your pet's size. This command is great when hiking or visiting that outdoor cafe.
A ladder placed flat on the ground can help growing puppies learn to manipulate their hindquarters and become more sure-footed. Use lots of patience, praise and rewards to encourage your pup, on leash, to walk the length of the ladder, stepping over the rungs.
To encourage your pup to chew their toys/bones and not your furniture or clothing, establish a toy basket just for the pet. Place a variety of toys of variable textures and sizes in the basket--including plush toys, rawhide chews and a ball. To keep your pet interested, hide a few special treats in the basket before encouraging your pet to get a toy. You can eventually move the basket with you, to entertain a pup while working in your home office.
Times NOT To Train:
When you are not feeling well.
When you are angry, negative or upset.
When you are low on patience or out of energy.
When there are too many distractions for you in the training area.
When there are too many distractions for your dog's level of ability to concentrate on learning a new command. (Instead, try proofing your dog on commands that are already well understood).
When you are unclear how to perform or teach an exercise to your dog. Clarify what you should be doing, with your trainer, before working your dog.
In Summary:
Training is really all the little things you do each and every day, showing your dog what you expect from their behavior. Training should be a special time for you and your pet to enjoy being together. End each session with something your dog is good at doing--and praise, praise, praise.
____________________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado. Denver Dog Works is an all-breed training school that specializes in canine sports and working dogs. If you would like to find out more about our programs visit our website at www.DenverDogWorks.com or give us a call at 303-752-2818 anytime.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
30 Days for Bonding
30 Days of Bonding
By Robert Forto, PhD
As a breeder of World Class German Shepherds I cannot stress enough how important it is for a new puppy owner to bond with their dog. I see time and time again where these new dog owners do not understand how important it is to integrate the new puppy into the family. Remember your new dog does not know you or your family. He/she will bond with you and your family in approximately thirty days. During this bonding there are going to be some things you do and do not do...
Do not leave your dog unattended with your children until the bond is complete. Tell your children not to rush up to the dog but to let the dog come to them. Entice the dog to come to them with food treats. If the dog does not want to approach them, don't worry, he/she will in a few days. Do not force people on the dog; he will become comfortable with your family in a few days.
The dog will be fed twice a day. Have your family take turns feeding the dog. Have them take the food bowl to the dog, put it down and then leave the dog alone while he/she eats. Do not bother the dog while he/she eats. Always feed the dog in the same place, preferably his kennel, the garage, etc.
If you are going to leave the dog alone, leave him/her in a crate until the bond is complete and the dog becomes comfortable in his/her surroundings. The dog will sleep in the crate at night. The crate can be put wherever you want.
Do not reach into the crate and try to grab your dog. Remember you have no bond yet. Bring the dog out to you with food or a toy. You must show the dog that you are his/her friend. Everything must be positive.
When playing fetch, use the two toy method until you have a good bond with the dog. Playing with the dog is a good way to make the dog comfortable with you. Have the children play fetch with the dog also. Do not attempt to grab the toy from the dog's mouth. First ask the dog to drop the toy for you. If he/she does not drop the toy, give him/her the command to drop it, at the same time showing the dog the other toy. When the dog drops the first toy, throw the other toy for the dog. This method will also strengthen your recall, because when the dog goes after the toy you threw, you will show him the second toy when you call him to bring you the first toy. (The best toys are rubber "KONGS" available in any pet store.)
If your children bring their friends to the house, be sure to secure the dog. Remember, your children's friends have not been taught like your children on how to act around the dog. Tell your friends not to force themselves on the dog, If the dog wants to be petted he will approach them. If you are going to have a party or have several friends over, put the dog away.
Playing, feeding and spending positive time with your dog is the best way to seal the bond. Do not try and force your dog to do anything like obedience, etc. Have the dog do what you want by using food rewards and praise. This positive reinforcement method will work the best for you if you are consistent. You will see the dog react to this method in a very short time. Remember you will be attending training classes at our facility after the thirty day bonding period.
Remember if you have other animals such as cats, birds, horses or any other type of livestock, your new dog will have to be socialized with them and taught how to behave around them. This is something you have to be consistent with until your new dog is comfortable around the other animals.
If you purchase a dog from Denver Dog Works remember your dog is already trained. Now you and your family must learn how to handle the dog properly by attending the prescribed training. It will be your job to explain this information to any other adult in the immediate family. If you are purchasing a puppy it is a good idea to enroll in a puppy class. Denver Dog Works has a new puppy class starting the first Saturday of each month. Give us a call for details.
Be sure you have read all the forms and handouts you have received from the breeder and/or in obedience class thoroughly. Do you research on your breed, his/her temperament, and personality. Familiarize yourself with puppy traits and behavioral problems. If you have any questions ASK!!! Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Do’s and Don’ts
REMEMBER TO BE PATIENT! YOU HAVE 30 DAYS TO BOND WITH YOUR DOG.
DO NOT! Let your dog sleep out of his crate for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks he can sleep out of his crate every other night for the next week.
DO NOT! Leave your dog loose or unattended in the house for the first two weeks. If you are going to leave the dog at home, confine him in his crate. If you plan on leaving the dog in the house unattended after he is finished with his training, after the first two weeks you can start leaving him unattended for short periods of time and slowly keep extending the time.
Be sure to take him out frequently to relieve himself, he is house broken, but he will be in a new area and may be excited and forget, so you will have to reinforce the training.
After the first two weeks, you will start some obedience work, so you will need to contact Denver Dog Works anytime after the first two weeks are up so we can help you get started. You will more than likely be enrolled in one of our Saturday obedience classes.
If you are having a problem or even think you are having a problem, you are to contact us right away. A Denver Dog Works instructor will call you back within the day. Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question!
DO NOT! Let your dog do anything you do not want him to do later on in his life. Remember you are the BOSS (pack leader). Your dog does not sleep on the bed or get on the furniture EVER! This can cause training and behavior problems in the future. If you want to sit or lay next to your dog, you go to him on the floor.
During the bonding period you should give your dog food rewards when you call him to you or when he/she does something good.
Training should start the day you bring your dog home. This is not only a great opportunity to form that life-long bond but also does not allow bad habits to develop. Often we will see dog owners come into Denver Dog Works when their puppy is six months old and the owners are at wits end and ready to give up. The first question I always ask is why did you wait so long? The most common answer is they wanted the dog to be a puppy. What a mistake! Would you not allow your children not to attend elementary school because you just wanted them to be a kid? No way! The same goes with dogs.
Just remember five simple things: exercise your dog often, be consistent, be patient, give Denver Dog Works a call if you have a question or a problem, and…
GOOD LUCK!
____________________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He specializes in canine sports and aggression. If you would like to contact Dr. Robert Forto he can be reached through is website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-752-2818 anytime.
By Robert Forto, PhD
As a breeder of World Class German Shepherds I cannot stress enough how important it is for a new puppy owner to bond with their dog. I see time and time again where these new dog owners do not understand how important it is to integrate the new puppy into the family. Remember your new dog does not know you or your family. He/she will bond with you and your family in approximately thirty days. During this bonding there are going to be some things you do and do not do...
Do not leave your dog unattended with your children until the bond is complete. Tell your children not to rush up to the dog but to let the dog come to them. Entice the dog to come to them with food treats. If the dog does not want to approach them, don't worry, he/she will in a few days. Do not force people on the dog; he will become comfortable with your family in a few days.
The dog will be fed twice a day. Have your family take turns feeding the dog. Have them take the food bowl to the dog, put it down and then leave the dog alone while he/she eats. Do not bother the dog while he/she eats. Always feed the dog in the same place, preferably his kennel, the garage, etc.
If you are going to leave the dog alone, leave him/her in a crate until the bond is complete and the dog becomes comfortable in his/her surroundings. The dog will sleep in the crate at night. The crate can be put wherever you want.
Do not reach into the crate and try to grab your dog. Remember you have no bond yet. Bring the dog out to you with food or a toy. You must show the dog that you are his/her friend. Everything must be positive.
When playing fetch, use the two toy method until you have a good bond with the dog. Playing with the dog is a good way to make the dog comfortable with you. Have the children play fetch with the dog also. Do not attempt to grab the toy from the dog's mouth. First ask the dog to drop the toy for you. If he/she does not drop the toy, give him/her the command to drop it, at the same time showing the dog the other toy. When the dog drops the first toy, throw the other toy for the dog. This method will also strengthen your recall, because when the dog goes after the toy you threw, you will show him the second toy when you call him to bring you the first toy. (The best toys are rubber "KONGS" available in any pet store.)
If your children bring their friends to the house, be sure to secure the dog. Remember, your children's friends have not been taught like your children on how to act around the dog. Tell your friends not to force themselves on the dog, If the dog wants to be petted he will approach them. If you are going to have a party or have several friends over, put the dog away.
Playing, feeding and spending positive time with your dog is the best way to seal the bond. Do not try and force your dog to do anything like obedience, etc. Have the dog do what you want by using food rewards and praise. This positive reinforcement method will work the best for you if you are consistent. You will see the dog react to this method in a very short time. Remember you will be attending training classes at our facility after the thirty day bonding period.
Remember if you have other animals such as cats, birds, horses or any other type of livestock, your new dog will have to be socialized with them and taught how to behave around them. This is something you have to be consistent with until your new dog is comfortable around the other animals.
If you purchase a dog from Denver Dog Works remember your dog is already trained. Now you and your family must learn how to handle the dog properly by attending the prescribed training. It will be your job to explain this information to any other adult in the immediate family. If you are purchasing a puppy it is a good idea to enroll in a puppy class. Denver Dog Works has a new puppy class starting the first Saturday of each month. Give us a call for details.
Be sure you have read all the forms and handouts you have received from the breeder and/or in obedience class thoroughly. Do you research on your breed, his/her temperament, and personality. Familiarize yourself with puppy traits and behavioral problems. If you have any questions ASK!!! Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Do’s and Don’ts
REMEMBER TO BE PATIENT! YOU HAVE 30 DAYS TO BOND WITH YOUR DOG.
DO NOT! Let your dog sleep out of his crate for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks he can sleep out of his crate every other night for the next week.
DO NOT! Leave your dog loose or unattended in the house for the first two weeks. If you are going to leave the dog at home, confine him in his crate. If you plan on leaving the dog in the house unattended after he is finished with his training, after the first two weeks you can start leaving him unattended for short periods of time and slowly keep extending the time.
Be sure to take him out frequently to relieve himself, he is house broken, but he will be in a new area and may be excited and forget, so you will have to reinforce the training.
After the first two weeks, you will start some obedience work, so you will need to contact Denver Dog Works anytime after the first two weeks are up so we can help you get started. You will more than likely be enrolled in one of our Saturday obedience classes.
If you are having a problem or even think you are having a problem, you are to contact us right away. A Denver Dog Works instructor will call you back within the day. Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question!
DO NOT! Let your dog do anything you do not want him to do later on in his life. Remember you are the BOSS (pack leader). Your dog does not sleep on the bed or get on the furniture EVER! This can cause training and behavior problems in the future. If you want to sit or lay next to your dog, you go to him on the floor.
During the bonding period you should give your dog food rewards when you call him to you or when he/she does something good.
Training should start the day you bring your dog home. This is not only a great opportunity to form that life-long bond but also does not allow bad habits to develop. Often we will see dog owners come into Denver Dog Works when their puppy is six months old and the owners are at wits end and ready to give up. The first question I always ask is why did you wait so long? The most common answer is they wanted the dog to be a puppy. What a mistake! Would you not allow your children not to attend elementary school because you just wanted them to be a kid? No way! The same goes with dogs.
Just remember five simple things: exercise your dog often, be consistent, be patient, give Denver Dog Works a call if you have a question or a problem, and…
GOOD LUCK!
____________________
Dr. Robert Forto, PhD is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. He specializes in canine sports and aggression. If you would like to contact Dr. Robert Forto he can be reached through is website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-752-2818 anytime.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Dogs With Bite Histories
Dogs with Bite Histories
By Robert Forto, PhD
It is always something that most dog owners have in the back of their minds – the horror of finding out, either first or secondhand, that your dog has bitten someone. In some cases you know that it is a possibility, in other cases you are completely stunned that your dog could do something like this. While you are reeling from the information, trying to decide what to do, here are some things to consider.
1) How bad was the bite? Dr. Ian Dunbar, a veterinarian and respected dog trainer, grades bites on a level of 1-6:
1. Did the bite leave no evidence of damage?
2. Teeth made contact, but no pressure was used.
3. One to three punctures in a single bite, none deeper than ½ the length of a
canine tooth.
4. One to four punctures, with at least one puncture deeper than ½ the length of
a canine tooth. This means that the dog grabbed and shook what was in its mouth.
5. Multiple Level 4 bites.
6. Death.
Know that dogs do not “accidentally” bite. Puppies spend so much of their time playing, chewing, and putting things in their mouth so that they can learn the extent of their jaw’s capabilities and strengths. If a dog puts teeth on you, but did not actually bite down, it is exactly what he meant to do. If a dog leaves a puncture wound, it was not an accident, he put as much pressure into the bite as he thought she needed to.
A dog that issues a Level 1-3 bite is usually considered a good candidate for rehabilitation. Dogs with a history of bites that are Level 4 and higher are considered to be a much greater risk and not as likely to be safely rehabilitated.
2) What provoked the bite? If you know your dog is tense or fearful or protective in certain situations, and the dog was in one of the situations when he bit, you know what probably provoked him. Not all bites are obviously provoked, but many dogs give clear warnings before they bite that we humans never bother to see.
3) What was the dog’s reaction after the bite? Did the dog bite and go back to sleep, did she bite and then run away, did she bite once and prepare to bite again?
4) Is this a dog that you still want in your home? If you no longer want the dog in your home, what reason would someone else have for taking this dog into their home?
5) In many states, a dog must be quarantined for ten days after issuing a bite that is recorded. During that time, the dog cannot be sold, given, returned or otherwise be placed into someone else’s ownership. If proof of current rabies vaccination can be shown, the dog might be able to be quarantined at the home. If no current vaccination can be proved, the dog will need to be kenneled at a humane society, shelter, vet’s office, or other place as determined by local laws. Any kenneling fees are the responsibility of the dog’s owner.
It is becoming increasingly common for dogs with bite histories to cause companies to cancel insurance policies. Some municipalities will register dogs with bite histories as “dangerous dogs” and will impose restrictions on the dog’s owner.
Also keep in mind that some state laws may hold you liable for any further bites that the dog may issue if you re-home the dog, either before or after the required ten day holding period is up. If it can be proved that you knew the dog is a bite risk, even if you chose not to disclose the fact to a new owner, you can still be held accountable.
If you would like to keep your dog in your family, you need to take measures to make sure that the dog is unlikely to bite again. Identify what provoked the bite and what can be done to manage it. This might include crating otherwise confining the dog in a room away from guests, employing muzzles, keeping the dog leashed and under the control of a responsible adult at all times, not allowing the dog in the yard unsupervised, working closely with a behaviorist or experienced trainer, or other management techniques that are deemed appropriate for the situation. You and your family must carefully consider whether these management techniques are possible and if so, will they be in place 100% of the time.
Working with a trainer is a must in dog bite cases. A canine behaviorist should be the first type of person that you look for. If a qualified canine behaviorist is not available, your next person to look for would be a trainer who is not only experienced in dealing with aggressive dogs, but is also comfortable meeting and working out training protocols for aggressive dogs. My suggestion is to find someone who uses positive reinforcement rather than compulsion training techniques, as these positive techniques can be issued by anyone, as opposed to compulsion techniques that use physical corrections, which are only effective if someone is big enough to correct the dog. Also, since many times dogs bite out of fear or stress, physical corrections can do more to worsen a problem than that help to resolve it. Regardless of the training methods used, it is imperative that YOU work with the dog and trainer!!! Sending your dog away to be trained by someone else is teaching the dog to respond to the trainer and not to you. As the responsibility of this dog will be upon you, you need to be learning training and management techniques right along with your dog.
A dog that bites is not automatically a bad dog. However, it is a dog that is in need of immediate behavior modification and a full physical and blood work up at the vet’s office. There are many, many reasons that a dog might bite, some obvious, and some not so obvious. Some dogs bite because they are afraid and feel the need to protect themselves. Other dogs bite because they feel that they are in charge and need to keep people in line. Still other dogs bite to protect themselves or what they perceive is theirs. Dogs may bite because of physical pain and it is possible for dogs to bite because of physical problems, like a tumor, or chemical imbalances in the brain.
In some cases the kindest or most responsible thing to do for the dog is to have it humanely euthanized. Dogs in physical pain that can not be relieved are clearly miserable if they are at the point that they bite. Dogs with mental illness or chemical imbalances can be as sick as a dog with cancer or heart disease. As in the case with physical illness, sometimes mental illness can not be treated and the pain is overwhelming enough that death is the kindest treatment. Some dogs that bite out of fear or protection have this learning, whether self-taught or human trained, and even well-meaning humans can unknowingly teach their dogs that biting is the best option, so well ingrained in their minds that it cannot be trained out. Rather than sending a dog to a shelter or putting it into a home where it might once again make the choice to bite (and bite more severely than before), contacting the vet yourself so that the dog is euthanized in familiar surroundings can be a very, very difficult for you, but by far the most loving thing you can do for your dog.
Obviously, the best thing you can do for your dog is to train it to accept all situations. Your dog does not have to love all the situations you put it in, but it does have to be tolerant. Rational, sound people don’t turn on friends and loved ones with knives or fists and inflict damage just because they are asked to do something they don’t care to do. We can and should expect the same courtesy from our canine family and friends. Teaching your dog to accept handling, new and unusual people, and to deal with frustration, as well as picking up some self control skills, is the first step to preventing a dog bite before it can even happen.
_____________
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Denver Dog Works. He specializes in canine aggression. He can be reached via his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727.
By Robert Forto, PhD
It is always something that most dog owners have in the back of their minds – the horror of finding out, either first or secondhand, that your dog has bitten someone. In some cases you know that it is a possibility, in other cases you are completely stunned that your dog could do something like this. While you are reeling from the information, trying to decide what to do, here are some things to consider.
1) How bad was the bite? Dr. Ian Dunbar, a veterinarian and respected dog trainer, grades bites on a level of 1-6:
1. Did the bite leave no evidence of damage?
2. Teeth made contact, but no pressure was used.
3. One to three punctures in a single bite, none deeper than ½ the length of a
canine tooth.
4. One to four punctures, with at least one puncture deeper than ½ the length of
a canine tooth. This means that the dog grabbed and shook what was in its mouth.
5. Multiple Level 4 bites.
6. Death.
Know that dogs do not “accidentally” bite. Puppies spend so much of their time playing, chewing, and putting things in their mouth so that they can learn the extent of their jaw’s capabilities and strengths. If a dog puts teeth on you, but did not actually bite down, it is exactly what he meant to do. If a dog leaves a puncture wound, it was not an accident, he put as much pressure into the bite as he thought she needed to.
A dog that issues a Level 1-3 bite is usually considered a good candidate for rehabilitation. Dogs with a history of bites that are Level 4 and higher are considered to be a much greater risk and not as likely to be safely rehabilitated.
2) What provoked the bite? If you know your dog is tense or fearful or protective in certain situations, and the dog was in one of the situations when he bit, you know what probably provoked him. Not all bites are obviously provoked, but many dogs give clear warnings before they bite that we humans never bother to see.
3) What was the dog’s reaction after the bite? Did the dog bite and go back to sleep, did she bite and then run away, did she bite once and prepare to bite again?
4) Is this a dog that you still want in your home? If you no longer want the dog in your home, what reason would someone else have for taking this dog into their home?
5) In many states, a dog must be quarantined for ten days after issuing a bite that is recorded. During that time, the dog cannot be sold, given, returned or otherwise be placed into someone else’s ownership. If proof of current rabies vaccination can be shown, the dog might be able to be quarantined at the home. If no current vaccination can be proved, the dog will need to be kenneled at a humane society, shelter, vet’s office, or other place as determined by local laws. Any kenneling fees are the responsibility of the dog’s owner.
It is becoming increasingly common for dogs with bite histories to cause companies to cancel insurance policies. Some municipalities will register dogs with bite histories as “dangerous dogs” and will impose restrictions on the dog’s owner.
Also keep in mind that some state laws may hold you liable for any further bites that the dog may issue if you re-home the dog, either before or after the required ten day holding period is up. If it can be proved that you knew the dog is a bite risk, even if you chose not to disclose the fact to a new owner, you can still be held accountable.
If you would like to keep your dog in your family, you need to take measures to make sure that the dog is unlikely to bite again. Identify what provoked the bite and what can be done to manage it. This might include crating otherwise confining the dog in a room away from guests, employing muzzles, keeping the dog leashed and under the control of a responsible adult at all times, not allowing the dog in the yard unsupervised, working closely with a behaviorist or experienced trainer, or other management techniques that are deemed appropriate for the situation. You and your family must carefully consider whether these management techniques are possible and if so, will they be in place 100% of the time.
Working with a trainer is a must in dog bite cases. A canine behaviorist should be the first type of person that you look for. If a qualified canine behaviorist is not available, your next person to look for would be a trainer who is not only experienced in dealing with aggressive dogs, but is also comfortable meeting and working out training protocols for aggressive dogs. My suggestion is to find someone who uses positive reinforcement rather than compulsion training techniques, as these positive techniques can be issued by anyone, as opposed to compulsion techniques that use physical corrections, which are only effective if someone is big enough to correct the dog. Also, since many times dogs bite out of fear or stress, physical corrections can do more to worsen a problem than that help to resolve it. Regardless of the training methods used, it is imperative that YOU work with the dog and trainer!!! Sending your dog away to be trained by someone else is teaching the dog to respond to the trainer and not to you. As the responsibility of this dog will be upon you, you need to be learning training and management techniques right along with your dog.
A dog that bites is not automatically a bad dog. However, it is a dog that is in need of immediate behavior modification and a full physical and blood work up at the vet’s office. There are many, many reasons that a dog might bite, some obvious, and some not so obvious. Some dogs bite because they are afraid and feel the need to protect themselves. Other dogs bite because they feel that they are in charge and need to keep people in line. Still other dogs bite to protect themselves or what they perceive is theirs. Dogs may bite because of physical pain and it is possible for dogs to bite because of physical problems, like a tumor, or chemical imbalances in the brain.
In some cases the kindest or most responsible thing to do for the dog is to have it humanely euthanized. Dogs in physical pain that can not be relieved are clearly miserable if they are at the point that they bite. Dogs with mental illness or chemical imbalances can be as sick as a dog with cancer or heart disease. As in the case with physical illness, sometimes mental illness can not be treated and the pain is overwhelming enough that death is the kindest treatment. Some dogs that bite out of fear or protection have this learning, whether self-taught or human trained, and even well-meaning humans can unknowingly teach their dogs that biting is the best option, so well ingrained in their minds that it cannot be trained out. Rather than sending a dog to a shelter or putting it into a home where it might once again make the choice to bite (and bite more severely than before), contacting the vet yourself so that the dog is euthanized in familiar surroundings can be a very, very difficult for you, but by far the most loving thing you can do for your dog.
Obviously, the best thing you can do for your dog is to train it to accept all situations. Your dog does not have to love all the situations you put it in, but it does have to be tolerant. Rational, sound people don’t turn on friends and loved ones with knives or fists and inflict damage just because they are asked to do something they don’t care to do. We can and should expect the same courtesy from our canine family and friends. Teaching your dog to accept handling, new and unusual people, and to deal with frustration, as well as picking up some self control skills, is the first step to preventing a dog bite before it can even happen.
_____________
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Denver Dog Works. He specializes in canine aggression. He can be reached via his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-522-1727.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Romeo...
Romeo….
By Robert Forto, PhD
For those of you in Denver, Colorado you probably have heard of Romeo’s story. He was the dog that was found standing stoically over his canine companions dying body on Chambers Road last fall. He was given the name by the local media and the story became a firestorm.
Romeo’s owners did not come forward and he was taken to Maxfund Animal Shelter and put up for adoption. He stayed there for a couple of months and many people came by to look at him. He was not adopted for one reason or another.
A story ran in the Rocky Mountain News by reporter Bill Johnson and it caught the eye of Dr. Robert Forto’s P.R. guy, Steve Caulk of ProConnect Public Relations. Steve spoke to him and then to Mr. Johnson and an idea was born: Denver Dog Works, owned and operated by Dr. Robert Forto, would offer training for Romeo with hopes of producing a good story and providing a second chance for Romeo to find a good home.
Surely all of you had to read Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet when you were in high school and you know that the story is labeled a tragedy. In the story Romeo falls in love with a young maiden named Juliet and they stay together until the end. Well the story of Romeo the dog does not end tragically. He is actually doing well and remains a work in progress with his new owners in Thornton, Colorado and I am here to tell you how Denver Dog Works got involved with Romeo and how he has changed my training school forever.
It was late January and Romeo was adopted by a single mother, Kim, and her adult son, Chris, from the Maxfund Animal Shelter in Denver. Denver Dog Works, offered a 30-day board and train program to whomever adopted him at no cost. Dr. Forto did an initial evaluation only four days after the new owners brought Romeo home so they didn’t know much about him. The first alarm however was in the brief time that he was with Kim and Chris he had bitten two people, her dad and her brother. We had our work cut out for us.
During Romeo’s training we put him through the rigorous paces of learning basic obedience and working on the behavior problems that we observed. It was rough going at first. It was an entirely different world for Romeo than his previous life on the streets. He was going to be with us for a month. Our goal was to prepare him to pass the American Kennel Club’s Canine Good Citizen Test. The CGC test is a ten obstacle test to assess a dog and his owner’s ability to work together in the home and in public. This would be no small task for a street-wise, Chow-mix like Romeo. We, at Denver Dog Works thrive on a challenge and we set out to have Romeo pass the test.
The days and weeks passed and Romeo took to training very well. As his send-home day drew closer we could sense the anxiety and elation of Kim and her family having Romeo to finally become a part of the family. We did our part at Denver Dog Works, now it was our job to pass along the leadership skills and training methods to Romeo’s new owners.
On the send-home class we taught Kim and Chris the in’s and out’s of obedience and how to work Romeo though a basic 15-minute routine. We taught them how to deal with behavior problems such as jumping and barking and digging. Then we taught them about canine hierarchies and leadership. We taught them about the Pack Leader Bill of Rights and how to handle Romeo in a calm assertive manner. We stressed the importance of exercise, discipline and affection—in that order—and how to assert that it was Kim’s house not Romeos and he had to abide by her rules. We gave them a list of commands, a list of practical rules and an appointment for the next follow-up class a week later.
During the week back home, Romeo went back into his own ways and bit one of Chris’ friends and then Kim when she tried to correct him. It looked like we would have to put the Canine Good Citizen Test on hold. When Kim, Romeo and Chris arrived at their next class we worked on Romeo’s aggressive and dominant tendencies and Dr. Forto was almost bit three times by him in the hour class. The next plan of action was for Dr. Forto to conduct an in-home class for Romeo and deal with his issues there. That class went remarkably well. We scheduled the next follow up class a few weeks out and that is where we sit today. We still have our goal of having a Canine Good Citizen Test in the coming weeks and we hope that he will pass.
Dog’s can teach us a lot about life and about the bond that we have built with dogs over the past thirty thousand years. With a lot of hard work and determination things can be accomplished. Dogs do not judge but they do accept. Romeo grew up on the streets and turning a street thug into an angel does not happen overnight. Romeo is a work in progress. The Romeo affair, as it has come to be known, has brought Denver Dog Works nationwide acclaim and many new customers since reading about us on the Internet and in the newspapers. We have a promise that we will uphold our commitments to training and Romeo and his new family will persevere. It is just a matter of time.
If we have it our way Romeo’s story will not end in tragedy like the Shakespeare story. We at Denver Dog Works are committed to our customers through the end. We are not a training school that graduates every student in eight weeks whether they do well or not. We do not just train dogs we change lives.
Dr. Robert Forto is the owner and training director of Denver Dog Works and he specializes in canine aggression. His training of aggressive dogs has brought him national acclaim and his articles are frequently published in national publications. He writes a weekly blog, The Gangline, and it is posted on the Internet every Thursday. If you would like to speak with Dr. Forto he can be reached through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-752-2810.
By Robert Forto, PhD
For those of you in Denver, Colorado you probably have heard of Romeo’s story. He was the dog that was found standing stoically over his canine companions dying body on Chambers Road last fall. He was given the name by the local media and the story became a firestorm.
Romeo’s owners did not come forward and he was taken to Maxfund Animal Shelter and put up for adoption. He stayed there for a couple of months and many people came by to look at him. He was not adopted for one reason or another.
A story ran in the Rocky Mountain News by reporter Bill Johnson and it caught the eye of Dr. Robert Forto’s P.R. guy, Steve Caulk of ProConnect Public Relations. Steve spoke to him and then to Mr. Johnson and an idea was born: Denver Dog Works, owned and operated by Dr. Robert Forto, would offer training for Romeo with hopes of producing a good story and providing a second chance for Romeo to find a good home.
Surely all of you had to read Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet when you were in high school and you know that the story is labeled a tragedy. In the story Romeo falls in love with a young maiden named Juliet and they stay together until the end. Well the story of Romeo the dog does not end tragically. He is actually doing well and remains a work in progress with his new owners in Thornton, Colorado and I am here to tell you how Denver Dog Works got involved with Romeo and how he has changed my training school forever.
It was late January and Romeo was adopted by a single mother, Kim, and her adult son, Chris, from the Maxfund Animal Shelter in Denver. Denver Dog Works, offered a 30-day board and train program to whomever adopted him at no cost. Dr. Forto did an initial evaluation only four days after the new owners brought Romeo home so they didn’t know much about him. The first alarm however was in the brief time that he was with Kim and Chris he had bitten two people, her dad and her brother. We had our work cut out for us.
During Romeo’s training we put him through the rigorous paces of learning basic obedience and working on the behavior problems that we observed. It was rough going at first. It was an entirely different world for Romeo than his previous life on the streets. He was going to be with us for a month. Our goal was to prepare him to pass the American Kennel Club’s Canine Good Citizen Test. The CGC test is a ten obstacle test to assess a dog and his owner’s ability to work together in the home and in public. This would be no small task for a street-wise, Chow-mix like Romeo. We, at Denver Dog Works thrive on a challenge and we set out to have Romeo pass the test.
The days and weeks passed and Romeo took to training very well. As his send-home day drew closer we could sense the anxiety and elation of Kim and her family having Romeo to finally become a part of the family. We did our part at Denver Dog Works, now it was our job to pass along the leadership skills and training methods to Romeo’s new owners.
On the send-home class we taught Kim and Chris the in’s and out’s of obedience and how to work Romeo though a basic 15-minute routine. We taught them how to deal with behavior problems such as jumping and barking and digging. Then we taught them about canine hierarchies and leadership. We taught them about the Pack Leader Bill of Rights and how to handle Romeo in a calm assertive manner. We stressed the importance of exercise, discipline and affection—in that order—and how to assert that it was Kim’s house not Romeos and he had to abide by her rules. We gave them a list of commands, a list of practical rules and an appointment for the next follow-up class a week later.
During the week back home, Romeo went back into his own ways and bit one of Chris’ friends and then Kim when she tried to correct him. It looked like we would have to put the Canine Good Citizen Test on hold. When Kim, Romeo and Chris arrived at their next class we worked on Romeo’s aggressive and dominant tendencies and Dr. Forto was almost bit three times by him in the hour class. The next plan of action was for Dr. Forto to conduct an in-home class for Romeo and deal with his issues there. That class went remarkably well. We scheduled the next follow up class a few weeks out and that is where we sit today. We still have our goal of having a Canine Good Citizen Test in the coming weeks and we hope that he will pass.
Dog’s can teach us a lot about life and about the bond that we have built with dogs over the past thirty thousand years. With a lot of hard work and determination things can be accomplished. Dogs do not judge but they do accept. Romeo grew up on the streets and turning a street thug into an angel does not happen overnight. Romeo is a work in progress. The Romeo affair, as it has come to be known, has brought Denver Dog Works nationwide acclaim and many new customers since reading about us on the Internet and in the newspapers. We have a promise that we will uphold our commitments to training and Romeo and his new family will persevere. It is just a matter of time.
If we have it our way Romeo’s story will not end in tragedy like the Shakespeare story. We at Denver Dog Works are committed to our customers through the end. We are not a training school that graduates every student in eight weeks whether they do well or not. We do not just train dogs we change lives.
Dr. Robert Forto is the owner and training director of Denver Dog Works and he specializes in canine aggression. His training of aggressive dogs has brought him national acclaim and his articles are frequently published in national publications. He writes a weekly blog, The Gangline, and it is posted on the Internet every Thursday. If you would like to speak with Dr. Forto he can be reached through his website at www.denverdogworks.com or by phone at 303-752-2810.
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
Doggie Daycares
Doggie Daycares
By Robert Forto, PhD
People in Denver Colorado love their pets. Per capita Denver has one of the highest dog-to-owner ratios in the country. Dog owners in Denver make a higher wage on average than the rest of the major cities in this country and they pamper their pets. When I moved to Colorado from Duluth, a small town of 85,000 in Northern Minnesota, I had never heard of a doggie daycare. I could not fathom such a thing. Take your dog to a place where they run and play all day. Was there nap time? Did they finger-paint? Did they provide snacks? All joking aside, doggie daycare in Denver is a big business. If you do a search on the Internet you will literally find scores of them. This week’s article is how to pick a doggie daycare which is right for you, and more importantly right for your dog. Denver Dog Works is a training school in Colorado. While I would be reticent to say that all doggie daycares are created equal. I would be wrong. Denver Dog Works offers a daycare of a different sort. We offer day boarding. A little different than your typical daycare but I will let you decide for yourself.
How will I know which daycare is the best one for my dog?
Ask questions. Visit multiple facilities. Talk to the staff and go with your instincts. Is the environment calm and controlled? Do the dogs seem stressed or happy? Are the staff members interacting with the dogs? If not, they cannot know them well enough to detect or avoid trouble. Do they offer any sort of training or is it just a free-for-all. Is the daycare sufficiently staffed? Are the staff certified trainers or are they just seven dollar an hour college kids? Does the daycare have a screening process? If they do not demand proof of vaccinations from you, they are not requiring it of anybody else. Does the daycare have a relationship with a veterinarian that is close by? Are there specific strategies in place for handling problems as they arise? Is the daycare a member of the American Boarding Kennel Association? Are they licensed by the State? In Colorado, dog daycares, training schools, and boarding kennels are supposed to be licensed by the State Department of Agriculture. In order to be licensed a daycare must have a yearly inspection and meet stringent requirements in order to qualify. You would be surprised how many daycares and training schools are not. Do your homework!
How do I find a daycare in my area?
Word of mouth is a great reference. Search the Internet, ask your veterinarian, or check the local yellow pages. Once you find facilities you think you will like, go visit! The most important factor for choosing a daycare is its suitability for your dog and your instincts about the facility.
The trend in American society today seems to be work, work, work, and this requires leaving the loyal family dog at home for extended periods of time. Owners then come home to find a stressed out pooch, rampant destruction, either of the house, or the yard, and neighbors who complain of barking and howling due to separation anxiety. After working your 10 to 12 hours, you then need to exercise your pet— even in inclement weather. You have heard about dog daycare. You are thinking about it, but you aren’t sure it is right for you and your dog? This article is designed to give some insight into the growing trend of dog daycare facilities and their benefits, to help you decide if daycare is for you and your dog, and to help you choose the best option for your dog’s needs.
So what is doggie daycare?
It works just like daycare for children. Drop your dog off in the morning on the way to work, and while you slave away, your pampered pooch is pampered indeed! Dog daycare is an organized, controlled and monitored environment, in which a group of friendly dogs, from multiple families, can interact and play throughout the day in an enclosed building or yard. Depending on both your dog’s activity level and the curriculum set by the daycare owners, your dog may enjoy the day by playing with other dogs, playing with people, inside or outside, or whiling away the hours ensconced on somebody’s couch, getting loving attention. There is a daycare for every kind of dog, and it’s important to find one that fits the needs of your dog the best.
How do I know if daycare is right for my dog?
Most dogs that have had prior social experiences with other dogs will enjoy attending daycare. You may not know if your dog is a good fit for daycare until you apply and the facility performs its temperament test. Professional daycare managers will provide an assessment of your dog’s fit to their facility and recommend the best way to integrate them into the routine of the existing pack. Daycare is not a fit for all dogs. Some dogs do fail temperament testing due to aggression that is often fear based. Other dogs pass testing, but exhibit more stress than enjoyment when attending daycare. Some of these issues can be resolved with behavior training, so discuss your dog’s needs with the daycare manager.
How much does dog daycare cost?
Costs can vary widely, from a few dollars to $30 or more a day, depending on the provider and whether the daycare is operated out of a private home or a multi-staffed, full service facility. Some daycares offer pre-pay packages and others are simply pay as you go. Do not select your daycare by cost alone. The lowest priced daycare may not be suitable for your dog.
Facility specifics
A fully staffed facility offers much for a social dog. The number of dogs participating each day at these facilities often ranges from less than ten to eighty or more, all ready to make friends. The staff, whom are not always trained in canine behavior, keep the dogs busy with indoor or outdoor play, or even, in some cases, happily munching snacks and treats, and watching movies made just for the entertainment of dogs. Activities might include “hide and seek’’, or “tag’’, or anything that canine minds can come up with. Many facilities provide a variety of toys and balls to enjoy, and some even have swimming pools!
How do I know if the daycare facility is safe for my dog?
When asking questions of potential facilities, confirm that staff supervises each playgroup at all times. Inquire as to how many dogs each staff member supervises. This ratio can vary from as little as 1:10 to as many as 1:20 based on the comfort level of the operator. It will depend on the physical set-up, specific group of dogs at play and the experience level of the staff.
Ask how dogs are separated into playgroups. To minimize risk of injury, dogs should be separated
based on play style, size and age. Inquire as to how dog incidents are handled and how many injuries have occurred in the facility. Keep in mind that accidents and injuries can happen in all facilities. Dog daycare is like a child’s playground, and by allowing dogs to play together there is a risk of injury. Make sure you are comfortable with the testing process at the facility and their responses regarding handling of dog incidents. Be sure you are comfortable that escape risks are minimal at the facility. You should see multiple doors within the facility to the playrooms and secure high fences around outdoor play yards. Ask the daycare what their policy is regarding dogs wearing collars during play. If collars are worn, what is their safety plan if dogs’ mouths get caught during play? Make sure managers are happy to answer all of these questions and explain their safety policies and their reasons for them. Staff should be trained to deal with any outbreak of aggression that might result and most facilities have a standing agreement with a local veterinarian should an emergency arise. In all daycares, dog owners should present proof of current vaccinations, and all should be healthy to prevent the spread of infectious diseases and parasites. Dogs are temperament tested in most cases to ensure the safety of all the canine attendees.
The Difference
Denver Dog Works offers daycare in a different sort. We offer what we call day boarding. While the underlying concept is the same: you drop your dog off at our school on the way to work and pick him up at the end of the day, the similarities end there. Our staff at Denver Dog Works are certified canine trainers with a solid background in canine behavior and training. We understand pack dynamics and will only allow dogs to “play” or socialize after a proper introduction. Denver Dog Works is licensed by the State of Colorado and adheres to its strict standards. Not to say that many dog cares do not. But we cannot afford not to. We follow the policy which states that there must be at least one adult for every fifteen dogs present at all times and under direct supervision.
Denver Dog Works is a training school. Each day that a dog stays with us in our day boarding program they are trained using basic obedience. Each dog is brought out of his kennel each hour and we work on obedience, socialization, walks around the block, and most importantly supervised socialization. We keep a training file on each dog that day boards with us and we can develop a training plan and set realistic goals. Each day notes are tabulated so that we can determine progress with your dogs training each day he is with us.
The dogs in our day boarding program are allowed to rest alone in a kennel not forced to run around non-stop for hours on end. We work with a local veterinarian and all of our staff is certified in canine first aid and C.P.R. We care about all the dogs entrusted in our care and our commitment to their life-long learning shows.
If you would like more information on our day boarding program please do not hesitate to check out our website at www.denverdogworks.com or give us a call at 303-752-2180 anytime.
Dr. Robert Forto, is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado and he specializes in canine aggression. He supervises all training programs at Denver Dog Works and instructs people how to become a certified dog trainer.
Source: abka.com
By Robert Forto, PhD
People in Denver Colorado love their pets. Per capita Denver has one of the highest dog-to-owner ratios in the country. Dog owners in Denver make a higher wage on average than the rest of the major cities in this country and they pamper their pets. When I moved to Colorado from Duluth, a small town of 85,000 in Northern Minnesota, I had never heard of a doggie daycare. I could not fathom such a thing. Take your dog to a place where they run and play all day. Was there nap time? Did they finger-paint? Did they provide snacks? All joking aside, doggie daycare in Denver is a big business. If you do a search on the Internet you will literally find scores of them. This week’s article is how to pick a doggie daycare which is right for you, and more importantly right for your dog. Denver Dog Works is a training school in Colorado. While I would be reticent to say that all doggie daycares are created equal. I would be wrong. Denver Dog Works offers a daycare of a different sort. We offer day boarding. A little different than your typical daycare but I will let you decide for yourself.
How will I know which daycare is the best one for my dog?
Ask questions. Visit multiple facilities. Talk to the staff and go with your instincts. Is the environment calm and controlled? Do the dogs seem stressed or happy? Are the staff members interacting with the dogs? If not, they cannot know them well enough to detect or avoid trouble. Do they offer any sort of training or is it just a free-for-all. Is the daycare sufficiently staffed? Are the staff certified trainers or are they just seven dollar an hour college kids? Does the daycare have a screening process? If they do not demand proof of vaccinations from you, they are not requiring it of anybody else. Does the daycare have a relationship with a veterinarian that is close by? Are there specific strategies in place for handling problems as they arise? Is the daycare a member of the American Boarding Kennel Association? Are they licensed by the State? In Colorado, dog daycares, training schools, and boarding kennels are supposed to be licensed by the State Department of Agriculture. In order to be licensed a daycare must have a yearly inspection and meet stringent requirements in order to qualify. You would be surprised how many daycares and training schools are not. Do your homework!
How do I find a daycare in my area?
Word of mouth is a great reference. Search the Internet, ask your veterinarian, or check the local yellow pages. Once you find facilities you think you will like, go visit! The most important factor for choosing a daycare is its suitability for your dog and your instincts about the facility.
The trend in American society today seems to be work, work, work, and this requires leaving the loyal family dog at home for extended periods of time. Owners then come home to find a stressed out pooch, rampant destruction, either of the house, or the yard, and neighbors who complain of barking and howling due to separation anxiety. After working your 10 to 12 hours, you then need to exercise your pet— even in inclement weather. You have heard about dog daycare. You are thinking about it, but you aren’t sure it is right for you and your dog? This article is designed to give some insight into the growing trend of dog daycare facilities and their benefits, to help you decide if daycare is for you and your dog, and to help you choose the best option for your dog’s needs.
So what is doggie daycare?
It works just like daycare for children. Drop your dog off in the morning on the way to work, and while you slave away, your pampered pooch is pampered indeed! Dog daycare is an organized, controlled and monitored environment, in which a group of friendly dogs, from multiple families, can interact and play throughout the day in an enclosed building or yard. Depending on both your dog’s activity level and the curriculum set by the daycare owners, your dog may enjoy the day by playing with other dogs, playing with people, inside or outside, or whiling away the hours ensconced on somebody’s couch, getting loving attention. There is a daycare for every kind of dog, and it’s important to find one that fits the needs of your dog the best.
How do I know if daycare is right for my dog?
Most dogs that have had prior social experiences with other dogs will enjoy attending daycare. You may not know if your dog is a good fit for daycare until you apply and the facility performs its temperament test. Professional daycare managers will provide an assessment of your dog’s fit to their facility and recommend the best way to integrate them into the routine of the existing pack. Daycare is not a fit for all dogs. Some dogs do fail temperament testing due to aggression that is often fear based. Other dogs pass testing, but exhibit more stress than enjoyment when attending daycare. Some of these issues can be resolved with behavior training, so discuss your dog’s needs with the daycare manager.
How much does dog daycare cost?
Costs can vary widely, from a few dollars to $30 or more a day, depending on the provider and whether the daycare is operated out of a private home or a multi-staffed, full service facility. Some daycares offer pre-pay packages and others are simply pay as you go. Do not select your daycare by cost alone. The lowest priced daycare may not be suitable for your dog.
Facility specifics
A fully staffed facility offers much for a social dog. The number of dogs participating each day at these facilities often ranges from less than ten to eighty or more, all ready to make friends. The staff, whom are not always trained in canine behavior, keep the dogs busy with indoor or outdoor play, or even, in some cases, happily munching snacks and treats, and watching movies made just for the entertainment of dogs. Activities might include “hide and seek’’, or “tag’’, or anything that canine minds can come up with. Many facilities provide a variety of toys and balls to enjoy, and some even have swimming pools!
How do I know if the daycare facility is safe for my dog?
When asking questions of potential facilities, confirm that staff supervises each playgroup at all times. Inquire as to how many dogs each staff member supervises. This ratio can vary from as little as 1:10 to as many as 1:20 based on the comfort level of the operator. It will depend on the physical set-up, specific group of dogs at play and the experience level of the staff.
Ask how dogs are separated into playgroups. To minimize risk of injury, dogs should be separated
based on play style, size and age. Inquire as to how dog incidents are handled and how many injuries have occurred in the facility. Keep in mind that accidents and injuries can happen in all facilities. Dog daycare is like a child’s playground, and by allowing dogs to play together there is a risk of injury. Make sure you are comfortable with the testing process at the facility and their responses regarding handling of dog incidents. Be sure you are comfortable that escape risks are minimal at the facility. You should see multiple doors within the facility to the playrooms and secure high fences around outdoor play yards. Ask the daycare what their policy is regarding dogs wearing collars during play. If collars are worn, what is their safety plan if dogs’ mouths get caught during play? Make sure managers are happy to answer all of these questions and explain their safety policies and their reasons for them. Staff should be trained to deal with any outbreak of aggression that might result and most facilities have a standing agreement with a local veterinarian should an emergency arise. In all daycares, dog owners should present proof of current vaccinations, and all should be healthy to prevent the spread of infectious diseases and parasites. Dogs are temperament tested in most cases to ensure the safety of all the canine attendees.
The Difference
Denver Dog Works offers daycare in a different sort. We offer what we call day boarding. While the underlying concept is the same: you drop your dog off at our school on the way to work and pick him up at the end of the day, the similarities end there. Our staff at Denver Dog Works are certified canine trainers with a solid background in canine behavior and training. We understand pack dynamics and will only allow dogs to “play” or socialize after a proper introduction. Denver Dog Works is licensed by the State of Colorado and adheres to its strict standards. Not to say that many dog cares do not. But we cannot afford not to. We follow the policy which states that there must be at least one adult for every fifteen dogs present at all times and under direct supervision.
Denver Dog Works is a training school. Each day that a dog stays with us in our day boarding program they are trained using basic obedience. Each dog is brought out of his kennel each hour and we work on obedience, socialization, walks around the block, and most importantly supervised socialization. We keep a training file on each dog that day boards with us and we can develop a training plan and set realistic goals. Each day notes are tabulated so that we can determine progress with your dogs training each day he is with us.
The dogs in our day boarding program are allowed to rest alone in a kennel not forced to run around non-stop for hours on end. We work with a local veterinarian and all of our staff is certified in canine first aid and C.P.R. We care about all the dogs entrusted in our care and our commitment to their life-long learning shows.
If you would like more information on our day boarding program please do not hesitate to check out our website at www.denverdogworks.com or give us a call at 303-752-2180 anytime.
Dr. Robert Forto, is the training director of Denver Dog Works in Colorado and he specializes in canine aggression. He supervises all training programs at Denver Dog Works and instructs people how to become a certified dog trainer.
Source: abka.com
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Crate Training for Your Puppy
Crate Training for Your Puppy
By Robert Forto, PhD
One of the most common training questions asked to us at Denver Dog Works in Colorado is: “How do I house-train my puppy?” While there are many different ways to accomplish this task one tried and true way I have found that works is crate training. Some may say that it is cruel and unnatural. That is the furthest from the truth. I have enclosed I brief outline of how to introduce your puppy to a crate, Of course if you have any questions do not hesitate to give us a call at Denver Dog Works at 303-752-2818 anytime.
One of the best items you could purchase for yourself, as well as, your dog is the dog crate. This crate can be made of wire, metal, plastic, and/or collapsible nylon and mesh. All are easy to clean. This crate can help solve behavior problems, provide safety for your dog, and can become your dogs inside home when appropriate times occur.
Wild canines will secure a small, snugly fitting space to call its own. This space represents security to the dog. In its “den” it cannot be attacked or bothered, so it is able to completely relax. We use this instinctive desire for a secure den to make our crate training a very effective training aid.
ASK YOUR TRAINER ABOUT THE PROPER SIZE FOR YOUR DOG.
To introduce your dog to its crate, prop the door open and allow the dog to explore the confines of the crate. Placing food or the dogs’ favorite objects inside will encourage him to step inside. When your dog is comfortable with this, close the door for a few minutes, then let him out and DO NOT make a big deal about letting him out. Each time you put your dog on its crate, increase the time it is confined. Both you and your dog should think of the crate as a safe haven, NOT a prison. Once you have experienced the benefits of crate training your dog, you will question how you ever lived without this wonderful training aid.
USES FOR YOUR CRATE
It is very effective when house training puppies. Puppies instinctively will not soil their bed.
Use your crate for TIME OUT when your puppy or dog is just too wound up.
Use your crate as prevention to your puppy making mistakes when you’re not able to watch.
Use you crate to confine your dog for a few minutes prior to a training session.
Use your crate while transporting your dog in your vehicle; this is the safest place for a dog.
Your crate makes a great bed for your dog.
If your dog is a chewer, use your crate as a safe place of confinement with some safe toys.
Some dogs are finicky eaters; placing their food in the crate lets them concentrate more on the food.
You can use the crate to separate dogs during feeding time, as well as people meal times.
Shipping your dog by air is much easier if he/she has been taught to use a crate.
If your dog is ever in need to stay overnight at a veterinarian clinic it helps your dog remain calm in very stressful situations.
When introducing the crate to your puppy or dog place it in a quiet area where he/she will not be bothered or startled. This will help with training him/her that their “den” is their safe place to be.
Don’t wait until the last minute to introduce your dog to its crate, make it a part of your training plan today!
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. His training school offers monthly puppy kindergarten classes staring on the first Saturday of each month. If you are interested in training your dog the natural way give Dr. Forto a call at 303-752-2818 or check out his website at www.denverdogworks.com.
By Robert Forto, PhD
One of the most common training questions asked to us at Denver Dog Works in Colorado is: “How do I house-train my puppy?” While there are many different ways to accomplish this task one tried and true way I have found that works is crate training. Some may say that it is cruel and unnatural. That is the furthest from the truth. I have enclosed I brief outline of how to introduce your puppy to a crate, Of course if you have any questions do not hesitate to give us a call at Denver Dog Works at 303-752-2818 anytime.
One of the best items you could purchase for yourself, as well as, your dog is the dog crate. This crate can be made of wire, metal, plastic, and/or collapsible nylon and mesh. All are easy to clean. This crate can help solve behavior problems, provide safety for your dog, and can become your dogs inside home when appropriate times occur.
Wild canines will secure a small, snugly fitting space to call its own. This space represents security to the dog. In its “den” it cannot be attacked or bothered, so it is able to completely relax. We use this instinctive desire for a secure den to make our crate training a very effective training aid.
ASK YOUR TRAINER ABOUT THE PROPER SIZE FOR YOUR DOG.
To introduce your dog to its crate, prop the door open and allow the dog to explore the confines of the crate. Placing food or the dogs’ favorite objects inside will encourage him to step inside. When your dog is comfortable with this, close the door for a few minutes, then let him out and DO NOT make a big deal about letting him out. Each time you put your dog on its crate, increase the time it is confined. Both you and your dog should think of the crate as a safe haven, NOT a prison. Once you have experienced the benefits of crate training your dog, you will question how you ever lived without this wonderful training aid.
USES FOR YOUR CRATE
It is very effective when house training puppies. Puppies instinctively will not soil their bed.
Use your crate for TIME OUT when your puppy or dog is just too wound up.
Use your crate as prevention to your puppy making mistakes when you’re not able to watch.
Use you crate to confine your dog for a few minutes prior to a training session.
Use your crate while transporting your dog in your vehicle; this is the safest place for a dog.
Your crate makes a great bed for your dog.
If your dog is a chewer, use your crate as a safe place of confinement with some safe toys.
Some dogs are finicky eaters; placing their food in the crate lets them concentrate more on the food.
You can use the crate to separate dogs during feeding time, as well as people meal times.
Shipping your dog by air is much easier if he/she has been taught to use a crate.
If your dog is ever in need to stay overnight at a veterinarian clinic it helps your dog remain calm in very stressful situations.
When introducing the crate to your puppy or dog place it in a quiet area where he/she will not be bothered or startled. This will help with training him/her that their “den” is their safe place to be.
Don’t wait until the last minute to introduce your dog to its crate, make it a part of your training plan today!
Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Denver Dog Works in Colorado. His training school offers monthly puppy kindergarten classes staring on the first Saturday of each month. If you are interested in training your dog the natural way give Dr. Forto a call at 303-752-2818 or check out his website at www.denverdogworks.com.
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